Recent content by guardrailjim

The fact that you had to kreem the tank suggests something is in the carburetors. Clean the carbs and install an in-line fuel filter - to prevent flaking kreem from getting into the carbs.

Remove the side cover of the carburetor that the throttle cable goes into. It's fairly simple to see how the end of the cable hooks on to the activating arm. Loosen all cable adjuster nuts. Screw the cable into the carburetor as far as it will go. Move the activating arm enough that you can...

Alternate metal and friction plates. Never allow anything metal to touch another metal component of the clutch. That includes the steel plates together and against the clutch basket & cover. Yes, tighten the bolts all the way. The bolts are going into soft aluminum - so do not over tighten...

Inspect the air cleaner. A dirty filter will help start a cold engine by restricting air and richen the fuel mixture (just like using the choke). It will have the opposite effect on a warm engine.

Need more details. What is the history of the symptom? Did it start happening all of a sudden? - like after removing the carbs? Slowly get worse? What's the engine mileage? How long has the bike been sitting? Leaking intake manifolds - constantly R&R the carbs will cause a leak. Spray WD40...

Your bike uses 10W40 - use that. The 2 types of oil may not be compatible - change it again to ensure that all the 80W stuff is out. I don't think the oil is the shifting problem. It may just be a coincidence. Do no force the shift lever - you will do more damage.

As for the engine temperature - drain the cooling system and fill with fresh coolant. Coolant deteriorates and doesn't last forever.

The belt light will also come on (and stay on) when you disconnect the battery. What ever the cause, reset the light as instructed by the service manual.

As for the engine temperature - drain the cooling system and fill with fresh coolant. Coolant deteriorates and doesn't last forever.

As for the engine temperature - drain the cooling system and fill with fresh coolant. Coolant deteriorates and doesn't last forever.

Drain the carburetors (one at a time) into a clean cup to see what comes out. Any foreign debris - clean the carburetors and inspect the inside of the fuel tank for rust.

The engine is probably tired and worn out. Time for a top end rebuild (cylinder, piston & rings).

Instead of "going" to salvage yards, call them. Search the web for - motorcycle salvage Call around - they ship anywhere.

Check and make sure the spark plug is firing. Remove the plug from the engine. Insert a known working spark plug into the plug cap. Rest the threads of the plug against a metal part of the engine. Try to start the bike. The spark plug should spark. If it doesn't, electrical troubleshooting is...

First off, because of Kawasaki's positive neutral finder, if the bike is not in motion, the transmission cannot be shifted from neutral into 2nd gear, or any gear higher. It's possible you only"think" the transmission is shifting through all the gears. Maybe the shift lever is bent and being...