What do I need for a fish only marine tank?

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Molly B

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The question pretty much says it all, but for those of your wondering, I've been keeping freshwater tanks for about 10 years now, and was interested in starting a 55 gallon marine tank. What do I need for a fish only tank? I don't plan on keeping corals or invertebrates, or anything like that. If you could be fairly specific, and even recommend brands, or the likes, it would be really appreciated. Also, is anyone familiar with the Marineland Instant Ocean kit? I was trying to find out what equipment/products it came with. Packages like that always seem so temptingly easy.
 
I would go with a FOWLR.

No more work just alittle more money for the rock that is.

The reason is because live rock is so benefical for marine aquariums, not only providing structure but biological filtration.

For a 55 gallon your going to want to get around 1 1/2 pounds of live sand per gallon, and 1-2 pounds of live rock (if you choose to go this direction)

Look into getting 1 or 2 HOB fitlers or a canister, or sump filter.

For a 55 gallon you can look into a refugium but if your not ever looking into going FOWLR or /REEF then you wont need it.

A protein skimmer again isnt needed as you dont plan on a reef tank, but it is a good idea to get one for added filtration.

Lighting is up to you. Again no corals so you dont need a power compact or metal halide unit.

Pretty much that is it, normal fish stuff like lids etc.... You wont need extra powerheads as no reef plans.


For brands, IMO and personal use, i use seachem products, Marine buffer, Trace elements, etc...

My salt is seachem reef salt, but i have used instant oceans in the past. Byfar the cheapest and basically the same as others. Red sea is also a good brand for sea salt.

O the most important part... a hydrometer. Instant ocean makes one, it is needed to measure salinity/specific gravity for your aquarium. 1.020-1.026 is the correct range for marine aquariums.

And like mentioned... buffer is need to raise the ph to 8.3

These kits are good, often come with marine salt and a powerhead to mix the salt.

If you have anymore questions, please dont hesisate to ask.
 
I haven't used that exact kit, but it's similar to the Marineland Eclipse tank system. I don't care for the *filtration* system in these. The filter sits up in the hood, and the water is meant to flow across the top of a filter pad, trickle down through it, then flow out at the other end by gravity. This works until the filter pad starts getting debris clogging it, at which point the water just flows over the top of the pad and out, without every going through the filter pads. So essentially, it doesn't filter anything. But there is a biowheel where the water exits, so you'll get biological filtration at any rate. Just little to no mechanical or chemical filtration. My preference would be to get a standard glass tank and get an Aquaclear filter or a canister filter.

Other than that, you'll want an aragonite substrate, this will help with the pH which you want about 8.0. You can buy live sand to help cycle the tank faster, but it's more expensive. Marine salt, of course, and a hydrometer to measure the salinity. A water testing kit, so you can cycle the tank is a good idea.

Live rock is optional, but it adds to the biofiltration. Dry rock can be used too. You want to have a few hiding places for the fish, and rock looks better than PVC pipe. If you use live rock, technically this would make your tank a FOWLR.

Things like protein skimmers and UV are really optional for fish only tanks. The skimmer can help keep your nitrates lower, but so can regular water changes.

Everything else, filters, heaters, lights would be just like you'd use for freshwater.

And get a good marine aquarium book, in this department you can do a lot better than what the kit provides for you.
 
I haven't used that exact kit, but it's similar to the Marineland Eclipse tank system. I don't care for the *filtration* system in these. The filter sits up in the hood, and the water is meant to flow across the top of a filter pad, trickle down through it, then flow out at the other end by gravity. This works until the filter pad starts getting debris clogging it, at which point the water just flows over the top of the pad and out, without every going through the filter pads. So essentially, it doesn't filter anything. But there is a biowheel where the water exits, so you'll get biological filtration at any rate. Just little to no mechanical or chemical filtration. My preference would be to get a standard glass tank and get an Aquaclear filter or a canister filter.

Other than that, you'll want an aragonite substrate, this will help with the pH which you want about 8.0. You can buy live sand to help cycle the tank faster, but it's more expensive. Marine salt, of course, and a hydrometer to measure the salinity. A water testing kit, so you can cycle the tank is a good idea.

Live rock is optional, but it adds to the biofiltration. Dry rock can be used too. You want to have a few hiding places for the fish, and rock looks better than PVC pipe. If you use live rock, technically this would make your tank a FOWLR.

Things like protein skimmers and UV are really optional for fish only tanks. The skimmer can help keep your nitrates lower, but so can regular water changes.

Everything else, filters, heaters, lights would be just like you'd use for freshwater.

And get a good marine aquarium book, in this department you can do a lot better than what the kit provides for you.
 
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