Between the Trees..
New member
Any of the latest oils will work fine. In all honesty having been into hundreds of engines I have never seen an engine failure directly correlated to a poor oil. Even garden variety 10W30 dino car oil.
I have taken engines apart that were so overheated that the smell of burned oil that has almost turned to tar and burned internal rubber parts and crispy gaskets was absolutely nauseating. The ultimate failure was melting of the aluminum piston and the loss of compression.
Valves, rockers, cams, rod bearings etc. were ok for reassembly. So run what you like and be assured it will protect the guts well. Just change it every 3000 miles to remove the acids and depleted additives.
I never have nor will spend the double price for the boutique brands. Over 400,000 miles on bikes in all conditions and Rotella or Delvac is quite adequate.
Want a little additional friction reduction? Add an ounce of one of the available friction modifiers such as Muscle MT10 or Petron. Makes 'em shift like butter.
I have taken engines apart that were so overheated that the smell of burned oil that has almost turned to tar and burned internal rubber parts and crispy gaskets was absolutely nauseating. The ultimate failure was melting of the aluminum piston and the loss of compression.
Valves, rockers, cams, rod bearings etc. were ok for reassembly. So run what you like and be assured it will protect the guts well. Just change it every 3000 miles to remove the acids and depleted additives.
I never have nor will spend the double price for the boutique brands. Over 400,000 miles on bikes in all conditions and Rotella or Delvac is quite adequate.
Want a little additional friction reduction? Add an ounce of one of the available friction modifiers such as Muscle MT10 or Petron. Makes 'em shift like butter.