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sticking shifter - tough to get "neutral"
- Thread starter Frances M
- Start date
Your plates would heat up too and the pack would become slightly thicker, perhaps just enough to rob you of that last bit of throw to fully disengage. That 'may' explain that but it still appears that yes, you don't have enough throw in the first place.
Just to recap, your changes since it was last working properly? Levers, SS springs - anything else?
It's just a process of elimination and is really pretty basic.
A hydraulic pump needs to push a slave cylinder a certain distance.
The distance needed is dependant on how much is needed for clutch separation (anyone know exactly what this is?) and I suspect it would be marginally more for a greater number of plates.
The pressure needed is => what is required at the springs for full separation.
Air in the hydraulic side will lessen the available amount of pressure applied at the springs, the less pressure available - the less distance travelled.
Putting on a larger slave will decrease the available distance travelled.
The master can only supply a certain amount of volume through a stroke of operation by the lever.
Changing levers can upset or not allow the required travel of the master plunger. If the lever applies pressure to far into the lever travel then it will hit the grip before moving the slave enough distance.
Changing 'leverage' at a lever will affect the master travel.
By design - greater leverage will yield greater force and less distance travelled.
If in your case Devulge, everything was unchange since working properly then you more than likely have air in the hydraulics.
If it were to be decided after a thorough inspection of the hydraulics that they are good then it is down to the distance of travel needed at the pressure plate. If with a good hydraulic system you are not getting enough distance at the plate then it is down to a change that you have made, either at the lever (not actuating enough master travel), mismatch of slave & master (usually too large a slave), clutch pack thickness or a change in pressure plate/bearing. Springs are only culprits, usually a lack of tension, when slipping whilst engaged.
A lot of members here seem to have all sorts of strife from clutches so it seems.
We need the definitve clutch thread in the Tech section. Or has someone seen one somewhere else on the web?
Just to recap, your changes since it was last working properly? Levers, SS springs - anything else?
It's just a process of elimination and is really pretty basic.
A hydraulic pump needs to push a slave cylinder a certain distance.
The distance needed is dependant on how much is needed for clutch separation (anyone know exactly what this is?) and I suspect it would be marginally more for a greater number of plates.
The pressure needed is => what is required at the springs for full separation.
Air in the hydraulic side will lessen the available amount of pressure applied at the springs, the less pressure available - the less distance travelled.
Putting on a larger slave will decrease the available distance travelled.
The master can only supply a certain amount of volume through a stroke of operation by the lever.
Changing levers can upset or not allow the required travel of the master plunger. If the lever applies pressure to far into the lever travel then it will hit the grip before moving the slave enough distance.
Changing 'leverage' at a lever will affect the master travel.
By design - greater leverage will yield greater force and less distance travelled.
If in your case Devulge, everything was unchange since working properly then you more than likely have air in the hydraulics.
If it were to be decided after a thorough inspection of the hydraulics that they are good then it is down to the distance of travel needed at the pressure plate. If with a good hydraulic system you are not getting enough distance at the plate then it is down to a change that you have made, either at the lever (not actuating enough master travel), mismatch of slave & master (usually too large a slave), clutch pack thickness or a change in pressure plate/bearing. Springs are only culprits, usually a lack of tension, when slipping whilst engaged.
A lot of members here seem to have all sorts of strife from clutches so it seems.
We need the definitve clutch thread in the Tech section. Or has someone seen one somewhere else on the web?
tt, brett, pat,
It was the master cylinder or at least I'm fairly sure. I bled the MC and 3 bubbles came out. I can now visibly see the clutch pack moves an addition 1.5-2mm which should be what was missing. The downside is I no longer have a soft lever, this SOB is killer now. I wasn't going to get an aftermarket slave but this is MUCH harder than it used to be. One of the heads on the slave stripped trying to remove it (was installing the COX case guard) so I need to figure out how to get that removed so I can actually put on a new slave. I'm thinking of just dremeling a slot in it so I can try a flat head screw driver. I've banged it to get movement in the threads and everything. Even tried to tighten it to see if the threads would move.
I then did the same for the brake side and we are right as rain, much firmer as with the clutch.
It was the master cylinder or at least I'm fairly sure. I bled the MC and 3 bubbles came out. I can now visibly see the clutch pack moves an addition 1.5-2mm which should be what was missing. The downside is I no longer have a soft lever, this SOB is killer now. I wasn't going to get an aftermarket slave but this is MUCH harder than it used to be. One of the heads on the slave stripped trying to remove it (was installing the COX case guard) so I need to figure out how to get that removed so I can actually put on a new slave. I'm thinking of just dremeling a slot in it so I can try a flat head screw driver. I've banged it to get movement in the threads and everything. Even tried to tighten it to see if the threads would move.
I then did the same for the brake side and we are right as rain, much firmer as with the clutch.
I still haven't had a chance for a ride (fuggin rain here). I'm pretty sure it will be better and maybe Friday night I can take a quick 20mi ride and get the temps up to check everything.
Oh and my clutch fluid wasn't toasted, it was the MC rubber thing sucked down and the black against the other items made the fluid look dirty but I still flushed it.
Oh and my clutch fluid wasn't toasted, it was the MC rubber thing sucked down and the black against the other items made the fluid look dirty but I still flushed it.
wanttoknowpleasex
New member
Alright bike checked out okay but now the clutch engagement is so far out on the lever stroke where before it was closer to the grip which I like and am more accustom to. Is this from a wearing clutch or can I make any adjustments to get the clutch to feel like it used to? The bonus is I can shift faster but on downshift while I feather it makes the wheel slide where it didn't before.