Screen protectors-good or bad?

K

Kunmui

New member
I had a TE for a couple years and always had a Brando screen protector on it. The sensitivity of the writing area decreased steadily over time to the point it now takes quite a bit of pressure to write, or even draw on Note Pad.

I just got a new TX and am very impressed with how little pressure it takes to write on the screen. This seems like a good thing. It seems that it should last longer if you use very little pressure.

I just put a Brando screen protector on the new TX and it is obvious that it does take more stylus pressure to write. So, is this a good thing or a bad thing? The protector has two real advantages. (1) it reduces glare and (2) it will keep the TXs screen from being scratched. But, it requires me to press the stylus harder onto the TXs screen. I assume the reason is that the thickness of the protector spreads the force over an area, thus requiring a greater overall force in order to get enough force to register in the point directly under the sylus.

What is the consensus? Why did my TE touch screen become so desensitized in two years time. I ony use it for writing short notes and memos. I don't write long winded things such as this message ;-)

As a side note, I did some measuring with a CDS cell connected to an ohm meter and found that the Brando antiglare screen protector only reduces the brighness of the TX's screen by the same amount as one single click of the slider in the TX's brightness adjuster. It is almost not detectable with my eyes. My measuring instrument does have a resolution such that it changes 10 numerical increments from one click of the slider on the TX to the next click (higher or lower), In otherwords, it can detect a much fainter brightness change than my eye can detect and can certainly measure the difference between two slider increments of the TX.
 
Very interesting indeed, despite the fact that screen protectors are discussed "on and off" very often. This is a very definitive test and good question, IMHO!

I STOPPED using standard, "marketed for PDA" screen protectors and instead bought FRISKIT at a crafts store. It's around $10 for enough sheets to trim your own for ages, and they're MUCH thinner. They are also hard to get "straight," but easily removable (much more so than standard "vinyl" protectors or the Brando). They tend to leave micro bubbles which even with the "credit card applicator" provided with PDA protectors, don't often get them all. Remember to squeegee very slowly, take your time, and lift up if you see "anything." Immediate apply car wax (paste wax) when fully applied - and it's pretty cool. Response is very quick and easy, NO ADDITIONAL pressure required - as you stated so well above. I have noticed that you "lean in more" with the stock protectors, which is a reason I switched. The thickness makes a difference, since Friskit is so thin. It certainly won't tear, though.

My recommendation would be try as THIN a protector as possible to, as you said, "dissipate" the pressure more easily over the native screen "recognizer." The Friskit has worked well on my T3 for over a year now, and when it gets "cloudy" (I don't think the Brando does) - just apply a micro-dot of car paint polish to a small piece of paper towel, and rub out the swirls. I the re-apply the paste car wax to "slick things up," and it's the same or better than the native, unprotected screen.
 
Thanks Paul, I may give the Friskit a try. I never have any difficulty removing the Brando but I learned with my first Palm (m500) that the protector that comes with a new Palm is miserable to remove and leaves many small bubbles and also seem to get cloudy/hazy to soon.

How well does the Friskit stay on the screen? Does it have some kind of adhesive or tackyness or does it just rely on 'static cling'?

I find your comment on the car wax interesting. I sometimes put a tiny amount of silicone caulk/glue on a Q-tip and smear it on the graffiti writing area. Next I take a piece of cloth and wipe it off fairly thoroughly. This leaves the surface very slick, I assume it would be like your car wax in that regard.
 
I'm actually surprised that this is a question. Any decent screen protector worth it's salt will cause the screen to require very little to no additional pressure to detect your strokes.

The only thing I've ever been concerned about is those screen protectors that use a strong adhesive to stick to the screen. This is exactly why I got ScreenGuardz screen protectors, which uses static to cling to the screen. Writing on them is great -- it's as if there's no protector on the screen at it. It's also very good with getting rid of bubbles left (after "squeegying" it on) without human intervention.
 
I haven't used screen protectors in several years. But I use Rain-X on the screen surface. Unlike car wax, it doesn't get cloudy like an old cataract, and I beleive it has an even lower frictional coeficient than car wax. This stuff is incredibly slick. I find that I can scribble out messages using graffiti 2 much quicker.

I have tried some screen protectors like Fellows, and the Palm brand. All of them seemed to increase the error rate when using graffiti resulting in more time entering data. If most of what you do is screen clicks rather than entering data, I would think screen protectors are OK and offer additional protection in rugged areas.


But thanks for the tip on FISKIT, I'll check that out. I really like my TX and I do worry about scratching it more than I used to worry with my older PDAs.

Cheers,
John
 
Wrong, with all due respect epp_b. And that's why it is a question - and a good one. When we get past all the technical stuff: MHz, models, applications, spare screws, sliders, cases, etc . . . what remains is entering information as close to effortlessly as possible. That's what we bought the unit for, after all. Many popular screen protectors actually boast that they "improve" recognition." I've found this to be patently FALSE, unless you "slick them up" with a wax or as suggested above, Rain-X (I'm going to try that since it may last longer than the wax too!).

The only thing that's ever helped recognition for me is TealScript and tuning of strokes I design to fit my writing. However, as far as pressure required vs. the original screen unprotected, the Friskit or at least using the thinnest protector possible will be close enough to the original screen "feel" as not to be noticed. There should not be, say, 10-20% more "leaning into it" needed and if it is, you've got the wrong screen protector no matter what the cost.
 
I devised a simple way to measure the stylus pressure required. I made a simple little wire holder I can use to hold my stylus vertical and yet 'drag' it across the screen. Then I attached weights to the stylus until it was heavy enough to draw a line when using Note Pad. Then I weighed the stylus (weights included) on a small scale that will read hundredths of an ounce.

My 2 year old TE with a Brando required 1.52 oz.
My 2 year old TE with NO protector required 1.03 oz.

My new TX with Brando required 0.62 oz.
My new TX with NO protector (untested at this point since I don't yet want to remove it.)

As you can see my TE requires 50 percent more pressure with the Brando installed. Or another way to look at it is that the Brando required 0.49 oz. of additional pressure. If this carries over to the TX then the TX should only require 0.13 oz. without the Brando! I don't expect that to pan out but it will be interesting. I am going to remove the Brando as soon as my new ScreenGuardz get here and I will measure the naked TX at that time. I will also of course measure the pressure required with ScreenGuardz.
 
I love this stuff. Don't think anyone's ever tested it clinically. I'm wondering if the digitizer design hasn't been improved since your TE; I know my T3 requires a lot less than the 505 I started with.

Given the fact that the TX with a Brando required .62, you might put Friskit on TOP of the brando and measure - or try seran wrap rather than hunting around for the Friskit; just to get an idea of difference in pressure. I'll make a guess that the "naked" TX measures half of the .62 - or.3 oz. Hopefully that would mean Friskit on a TX (which I'm leaning toward grabbing as a replacement for the T3 in case of failure) - would need .4 oz - which would be fine with me.

Companies claiming "increased recognition" I believe are inferring that because there is a slight "rough surface" the stylus is picked up by the digi easier - but I found an "unpolished" screen protector, slick or "matte," to be ungodly awful in terms of feel. Same as those "rubber styli" available on more expensive (!?) stylus choices - those rubber tips drive me nuts - the original one is better, or at least (as I use) a "nylon tip."

If recognition is a problem with ANY saver, you might look at TealScript, simply because you can define graffiti areas into the zones YOU want, and none of us on here make an "h" exactly the same way. Also restores Graffiti1 characteristics for those not liking to "cross the t."
 
I can't even make an H the same way twice. ;-) My printing with pencil on paper is not real good but it is the best I can do. I print much like a first grader.

I do know that my two year old TE now requires more pressure than it did new, particularily in a few ares of the screen. Still, maybe they do make them better now days.

One thing I discovered when trying to understand why my TE took so much pressure sometimes, and seemingly less pressure at other times, is it takes less pressure the colder it is. In fact, if I put the TE in the fridge for 10 minutes or so the pressure required is very little (haven't actually measured it yet) but it really works nicely when it is 'refrigerator cold'.
 
Temperature! That's something about the friskit I forgot to mention - it's better than the "thicker" screensavers when it's hot. In warm weather the store-bought savers get almost "sticky," even when waxed/rain-x'd, along with the stylus tip. Feels like dragging a stick through mud.

The friskit is better in warm weather (less noticeable) and of course a little better when waxed. I had no idea that temperature affected pressure.
 
Not to weigh in on either side of the debate, but I found some Fellowes WriteRights at a dollar store for the Sony NZ90 and they're a darn good fit. They were $.88 for a pack of 12. Still had the $19.99 price tag from BestBuy on them. They seem to be a suitable alternative if you can find them.

- Dwayne
 
I prefer to use a screen protector because there are times that I forget and use something other than my stylus on the screen. Alas it never is very long that I use the incorrect item, but I can rest assured that I do have that protection. Like Paul (Palm TealLover) I do not use the "canned" protector. I use uncharacteristic products, i.e. adhesive self laminating sheets. I would not go without a screen protector for my own peace of mind.
Carol
 
I'm surprised to hear about Friskit, because I covered half of Manhattan and Brooklyn this weekend -- from hardware stores to high-end art supply stores looking for an alternative to conventional screen protectors -- and most everyone gave me a blank stare when I showed them the protective film that came on my TX screen and told them I wanted something like it.

Though in fairness, I had told them that was looking for thin vinyl film without adhesive, and this frisket apparently does have some, although it appears to be a very low-tack adhesive that can even be safely removed from photographs, which is pretty impressive.

I did finally end up finding some great vinyl sheeting in a fabric store, of all places. For $1.50 I got 1/2 a yard, which will certainly last me until PDAs are extinct... or until I can't see well enough to use them anymore, whichever comes first.
 
I just got a ScreenGuardz and installed it on my TE (not TX) and it made NO descernable difference in the pressure required compared to the TE naked. It took the same amount of weight on the stylus.

I don't get to a town that has an art store more than once a month so I have not been able to buy any friskit. I don't like the glossyness of SreenGuardz either.

My concern is still about whether a thick protector or a thin one will make the writing surface last longer, i.e. not require hard pressure as soon in its life. Logic tells me a thick one spreads the pressure therefor requiring more to have the affect, but it still only requires a certain amount to make contact. I thin one requires the same amount of pressure to make the screen detect it, but since the pressure is more local to the tip (not spread out) then less total pressure is required. It is probably a toss up with respect to which makes the screen last longer.
 
I use companionLink screen protectors that I bought for my Handera 330. These protectors do not cover the top 1/4" of the screen, but that isn't a problem for me. I am going to try to find some friskit to see if it will work as well as the CompanionLink.

My first handheld, the original Palm Professional I bought in July 1996 didn't come with a screen protector and I didn't know anything about scratching the screen. Sure enough, in several months of enthusiastic use, I had scratches on the bottom of the screen. I got in touch with Palm and they sent me an RMA and a mailer box (all free). I sent the unit back and received a new unit within about a week. I have been a real fan of Palm since then. Those were truely the "good 'ol days". I still have the original Palm and it works, of course.

Best wishes

Don
 
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