My 95 mazda protege starts but when rpm's come down it runs rough- engine light...

  • Thread starter Thread starter topminded
  • Start date Start date
T

topminded

Guest
...comes on loses power & dies? My car runs fine. it has 197,178 miles If the rpm is under 1 rpm for more than 5 seconds. The whole car just dies and my engine light comes on(battery and oil light) and then i put it in neutral and crank it back up. I got plenty of oit in it and the battery is new. Im thinking its the timing that is off or either the timing belt.
I have brand new spark plugs, New air filter, new fuel filter, I havent changed the ignition wires. Thats probably what it is. I havent changed my distributor cap either.
My car is also using gas more than usual because When Im going up a hill it goes slower like it loses power or something. I have to press the gas harder for it to go faster.
 
Not the timing or the belt.
This is a basic sounding issue.
Plugs in good condition?
Air filter ok?
Changed the fuel filter? Ever?
Ignition wires good?
Distrubtor cap and rotor, remove and check for carbon build up on contacts. Dirty? Replace.

Sounds like she just may need a basic tune is all.
Battery only gets used while holding the key while cranking the engine.
Oil does not factor in unless you have none in the engine.
If timing was off, it would be off all the time and have a greater effect.
Battery and oil light coming on during a stall is typical.
 
I agree with Eric. I've had mostly Mazda's my whole life and you should be able to get another 100k miles out of it with basic regular maintenance.
 
It could be any number of things - specifically, check your fuel filter/intake, your air intake filter. Also, is it by any chance running rough? And if it hasn't been happening for very long, it could even be a bad tank of gas - that's happened to me before.
 
Check the fuel filter. If you don't know how long it's been since it was last changed, then change it now. It's simple, cheap, and needs to be done, either way. If that doesn't cure it, due to the idle issue, I'd say check the vacuumhoses on the engine. There should be a diagram to what each hose goes to on the top of the radiator or on top of the grill once you've opened the hood. If any are cracked, replace them. Period. A lot of times, you can turn on an UNLIT propane torch (mapgas) and hold it around all of the hoses. IF it get's better or worse as you pass it around a certain hose, then you know it's bad.
Also, do a google search on the IAC valve. It's the idle air control valve. It is the fuel injected, electronically and vacuum run equivalent of a carb's butterfly valve. If it's sticking or stuck, then it's not going to run right. They're fairly simple to clean, and can make ALL the difference in the world in regards to a car idling correctly.
Good luck with it!
 
Back
Top