Killing the engine starting off from a start

Joey

New member
I picked up my C50C yesterday, brand new, zero miles. I cannot ease off the clutch and ease on the gas like I can on the Honda Shadow, I kill it too easy. There seems to be no play between friction zone and release. Now if I hit the friction zone and ride the clutch till I pick up speed and release the clutch everything is fine.

Do I need to adjust the clutch lever, or is this a break in thing? Even my first day in MSF class I did not kill the engine on the 250 they use, and I never killed the engine on my Shadow.

Besides that I love it. Looking at what the other bike makers offer for the same price I felt Suzuki gives it's owners a great deal.
 
Since you bought it new from a dealer, take it back and have them adjust the clutch cable to your liking. Don't leave until it's exactly how you want it. It will loosen up over time but you shouldn't be killing the motor on a cruiser. I'd say it needs adjusting.
 
I was thinking about going up there Sat, but did not want to look like an idiot until I got other's thoughts on it.

I got the bike with zero miles on it, but yet a service tech signed off on the test drive when they assembled it. I am sure they did not test drive it :)
 
Probably both. How many bike miles do YOU have?

My guess: more throttle and less clutch......and up the idle speed a tad, if that's possible.

If you think you have to "ride the clutch" beyond the first second, there is something wrong. Maybe bike, maybe rider......probably the latter. :mrgreen:
 
Congrats man. I don't know what the issue might be but i think it may just be what you're used to? Things are likely just a little tighter than they were on your Shadow...but i'm sure somebody else'll chime in if it's something else
 
11 miles on it now.

Yes I thought I was not giving it enough gas either, but proved myself wrong. Like I said I have to accelarate up to 5 MPH while riding the clutch at the friction zone and get going before I can let off. Like I said, there is no play between the friction zone and release. On my Shadow I can ease off the clutch as I roll on the throttle and no problems. It even died on me on a slow turn manuever.
 
Don't worry about that. You paid good money for a new bike. It doesn't hurt to have them adjust it. I'd say adjust it yourself but it's so new let the dealer assume that responsibility.

I couldn't kill my M50 if I wanted to. It's the easiest clutch I've ever felt. The C50 isn't much of a different bike. It's not like this is your first bike. I'm sure you know how to ride.
 
Like you say, things are tighter, mainly because it is new parts as well. That is why I was wondering if it was a break in thing and if it would get better as the clutch lever broke in some.
 
Thanks. Nope, not my first bike, but my first FI. I had a small dirt bike that you had to kick start and never had a problem with that clutch either, and I was 12 then. LOL

Now my Shadow I did kill twice when I first got it, but I was learning the release on that clutch and never killed it again.
 
No, you misunderstood.....How many miles on YOU, not the bike.

OK, so you are convinced that it is NOT you......so take it back to the shop to have it (the bike) fixed then. End of story.

Please let us know the results. Others may find it useful. :bluethum:
 
Another issue is that the Honda Spirit clutch is not nearly as hardy as the C50's. The C50's motor isn't a torque monster but it's got a lot more balls than the Honda engine. This requires a more durable clutch. When I've ridden my buddies Spirit, I swear I could work the clutch with just my pinky and still have plenty of finger strength left over. No way I could do that with my M50.

I'm in no way dogging out the Honda. It's a great bike. Before I posted I searched some Spirit reviews and read a review that parallels my opinion.

From "motorcycle.com": "There's nothing wrong with the bike, but I wish that there was so I could think of something distinguishing or characteristic about this bike!... Riding, or attempting to ride, the Shadow at a semi-sporting pace was not a rewarding experience. And even from a cruising perspective it wasn't spectacular either. It feels so bland that it is difficult to have any sort of remarkable experiences or impressions on it. But I'm sure it's dead reliable and it would provide thousands of years of trouble-free and completely boring years of ownership".

http://www.motorcycle.com/shoot-outs/honda-shadow-spirit-750

I think with more practice and developing hand strength you'll see this problem resolve.
 
That might be the answer I am looking for. Main reason I posted to ask before going to the dealership is this is the first FI bike I have been on so I was not sure if I was going through something normal or not, plus it is a brand new bike and was not sure if it was because of tight cables that would work it's way out.
 
i found the clutch on the M50 to be really tough to work when i first got it...

i stalled it quite a few times in the first month i had it... it finally loosened a bit... or i got better at clutch control :)
 
Took it in today and saw my sales person. He got on it and immediately noticed it was off and sent it to service. Service loosened the clutch lever and it is doing better now. I did not noticed until my sales person pointed it out, but when the lever was pulled in all the way the clutch was already in the friction zone. I thought I was imagining it, but when I tried to move my bike with it in gear and pulling in the clutch it seemed harder to move than when it was in neutral, engine on or off. He said I had almost zero friction zone.
 
afaik, this is normal if the oil is cold and hasn't moved in a while...

when it's in gear, it's sloshes the oil around and once it's moving, there will be a difference between neutral and in gear, albeit small.
 
OK, with a properly adjusted clutch, where does the friction zone start as you let the clutch out? I lowered my clutch and break levers down about 1/4 inch a few days ago on my new C50, thought the clutch a little tight so adjusted it some with the adjustment screw at the lever, now I've noticed that the friction zone is real, real close to the handle (1/8 inch). Is that where it should be?
--Clyde
 
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