Q
QUETZAL
Guest
I am a novice photographer..and i am trying to gather together the essentials needed to create a good photograph..Besides the camera, lenses, and tripod..what other things does one need...?
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How important is it to have an exposure meter for outdoor photography?
M
MixedMojo
Guest
You don't need a handheld light meter anymore, especially for outdoor phtoography. Most cameras, even prosumer entry-level DSLR's have a built-in meter that works in the same way, often with better results. You already have most of the equipment you would need, some other things would be a strong knowledge in composition and exposure. I recommend picking up a few books at your local book store. Look for authors like Bryan Peterson, Scott Kelby, and Michael Grecco, respectively covering exposure, technical principle of photography, and lighting. That's about it, other than that, develop an eye for good photographs and take as many as you can.
M
MixedMojo
Guest
You don't need a handheld light meter anymore, especially for outdoor phtoography. Most cameras, even prosumer entry-level DSLR's have a built-in meter that works in the same way, often with better results. You already have most of the equipment you would need, some other things would be a strong knowledge in composition and exposure. I recommend picking up a few books at your local book store. Look for authors like Bryan Peterson, Scott Kelby, and Michael Grecco, respectively covering exposure, technical principle of photography, and lighting. That's about it, other than that, develop an eye for good photographs and take as many as you can.
S
Steve P
Guest
You do not state what camera you are using / plan to use... i.e. film or digital; SLR; Point and Shoot?
So I will just tell you the best thing you can do for yourself to learn to nail exposure with film and your in camera spot meter.
The great Ansel Adams developed the "Zone System" of exposure and processing. It is a 10 range system based around the light meter's attempt to expose a scene to middle grey, (18% grey). It can be difficult to learn, but it can be greatly simplified. However, you MUST have a camera capable of taking a SPOT meter reading. Evaulative metering systems trying to average an entire scene will not work with this system.
A camera, or even a hand held meter is not always going to give you proper exposure. There are just too many variables that can create incorrect exposure.
What you need to do is learn to see a scene as to how it relates to middle grey. Snow is a good example. Many times people who take photos of snow do not like the dark, greyish look the snow has in their photos. This is because the light meter in the camera is seeing the white of the snow and trying to "correct" it to middle grey, and thus producing an underexposure. YOU need to know that, ... and when you do, it is easy to compensate for it. By using the simplified zone system, you know that the snow is a pure white, and you must INCREASE your exposure by two stops. Conversely, if you are shooting a shady tree area and you want detail in the tree bark, you would SPOT meter the tree bark, and DECREASE your exposure by one to two stops. That is because the camera meter is again trying to bring the exposure UP to middle grey, so you need to decrease the exposure manually.
In most outdoor scenes, you can just meter for the darkest area where you want to maintain detail, then decrease exposure by two stops.
Now... I am talking using a SPOT meter in the camera, and using negative FILM.
Here is what I have been talking about. Take time to look it over, no matter what camera you use. It will teach you a lot about light metering and exposure compensation.
http://www.simplifiedzonesystem.com/zs645n/page3.htm
Of course, there is always the grey card method of exposure calculation. You must have a large ACCURATE PHOTOGRAPHIC grey card to place in the scene you want to shoot. You then meter off the grey card. This will give you correct exposure with no compension required. Only problem is, it is not always practical to use this, so it is good to know how to use your eyes and brain to determine accurate exposure.
steve
So I will just tell you the best thing you can do for yourself to learn to nail exposure with film and your in camera spot meter.
The great Ansel Adams developed the "Zone System" of exposure and processing. It is a 10 range system based around the light meter's attempt to expose a scene to middle grey, (18% grey). It can be difficult to learn, but it can be greatly simplified. However, you MUST have a camera capable of taking a SPOT meter reading. Evaulative metering systems trying to average an entire scene will not work with this system.
A camera, or even a hand held meter is not always going to give you proper exposure. There are just too many variables that can create incorrect exposure.
What you need to do is learn to see a scene as to how it relates to middle grey. Snow is a good example. Many times people who take photos of snow do not like the dark, greyish look the snow has in their photos. This is because the light meter in the camera is seeing the white of the snow and trying to "correct" it to middle grey, and thus producing an underexposure. YOU need to know that, ... and when you do, it is easy to compensate for it. By using the simplified zone system, you know that the snow is a pure white, and you must INCREASE your exposure by two stops. Conversely, if you are shooting a shady tree area and you want detail in the tree bark, you would SPOT meter the tree bark, and DECREASE your exposure by one to two stops. That is because the camera meter is again trying to bring the exposure UP to middle grey, so you need to decrease the exposure manually.
In most outdoor scenes, you can just meter for the darkest area where you want to maintain detail, then decrease exposure by two stops.
Now... I am talking using a SPOT meter in the camera, and using negative FILM.
Here is what I have been talking about. Take time to look it over, no matter what camera you use. It will teach you a lot about light metering and exposure compensation.
http://www.simplifiedzonesystem.com/zs645n/page3.htm
Of course, there is always the grey card method of exposure calculation. You must have a large ACCURATE PHOTOGRAPHIC grey card to place in the scene you want to shoot. You then meter off the grey card. This will give you correct exposure with no compension required. Only problem is, it is not always practical to use this, so it is good to know how to use your eyes and brain to determine accurate exposure.
steve