"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$

I spend an incredible amount of time here reading the various threads and I want to thank you guys for: saving me money, costing me money, and tips on just about everything in between. Maybe now I can help someone else.

I couldnt ride more than an hour before I got "bikers Butt" and when I used an Airhawk, it would prolong it but not eliminate it. After a 550 mile ride, I was so sore I could hardly walk. Thats when I isolated the pain to my tailbone.

I'm kind of a do it myselfer so I researched a few webpages and decided what I needed was less padding where my tailbone hits. (I dont want to say "mines bigger than yours, but...). This site I found was invaluable in what I did to "cure" the problem. Link:http://www.diymotorcycleseat.com/

I followed the instructions to take apart the stock seat. I just removed the staples from the riders area as now my wife could have the Airhawk. I found the seat has a very firm base to it with a light pad on top of it. Also it had a very shallow depression in the base where the tailbone would be located. (You cant feel it thru the top layer). I proceeded to get out a Dremel and just made the depression deeper. I added about 1/2 " in depth to it. The cut out area is about 2" wide and 4" long. Dont worry if it looks like a sharp edge in the foam because the top layer wll cover it and smooth it out. Stretch the cover back over it and staple to suit.

To give it a test, we rode 300 miles and i was very surprised that my tailbone didnt hurt. Now I need to put more staples in because I just put in minimal amount in case I had to dig deeper.

I should have taken pictures but the whole job was over in about 45 minutes. There wasnt enough time to think of it.

Total cost for this job was $3.49 for staples. You will want to use 1/4" staples to reassemble.
 
Here's a little trick that helped me out in a bind. I had the problem of my brake lights being stuck on all the time due to the brake lever not making contact with the brake light switch. Take a small piece of rubber hose and super glue it to the part that makes contact to the switch and wham brake lights work perfectly.
 
My gas door on the ultra got to where it would not pop up enough to get a hold on it. I kept messing with the little tab but it would not last long. So I dug through my spring box and came up with a chrome spring about en inch long. Cut it in half. Remove bolt that has the little tab under it and put the small bolt through the spring. Tighten the last coil against the bolt and reinsert it back in the console. I have done this on both bolts either side of the fuel cap works great. Now I don't have to get my knife out to get the door open. If you need pics just ask. Pretty easy fix. Cost was 0 for me. Maybe .30 at the hardware store and less than 5 minutes.
 
im missing sumptin here i know, but when you cut the stock whips...whats the point of taking it apart? i m guessing there is a wire inside and a rod for support. you just cut the wire and wind the excess wire down the rod...
 
mine are one piece, no set screw..

tip from what one other said bout using a brass cup brush for the inside of the pipe ends... just did mine with some mothers mag polish on a powerball mini- shiny!
 
Back
Top