I maybe a little etream for some of you.I welded in some some filler that work with my leather bags,seems all the ones i found are for hard bags.I frenched the plate and new tail light.as for the grab rail im intstalling two pices of tube welded together with rib in middle and mounting two led bulbs in them on each side and connecting them to turn signals.Now when hit the turn button two big shotgun barrles light up realy gets thier attention.also split both sides of tanks and widened 2" each side in front to nothing at rear give the old girl that true super model figure.Oh yea adding to pistol grips in front of saddle bags give that concealed shotgun look when seeing dbl barrle turnsignals and the wooden pistol grips.As soon as get parts back from painter(little brother) and replace factory skins Ill post some pics.
"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
- Thread starter MaxTunk
- Start date
Great set up. I can see you and I have very similar tastes. I have a charcol gray Dodge 2500 crew cab and a black pearl road king too. I REALLY wish I had gone with the detachable back rest & luggage rack. I would have made my ride so much more flexible. Hindsight is 20/20 they say
Great looking garage. Mine has a 28" snowblower instead of a 4 wheeler with a plow. I'm sick of this white crap too. I did get out for a short ride last Saturday when it hit 40 and the roads were clear
Great looking garage. Mine has a 28" snowblower instead of a 4 wheeler with a plow. I'm sick of this white crap too. I did get out for a short ride last Saturday when it hit 40 and the roads were clear
nathaniel_russell2001
New member
HeyDave,
I noticed you live in Findlay. Not really too far away. I live in between Urbana and St. Paris. Did you guys get slammed two weekends ago? Retorical question really, I know you did. We all did! We got about 20 inches here. I bet that snow blower got a workout then huh?
Yeah, looks like we have some of the same likes. Do you have the Cummins or the Hemi? Mine is the Cummins and I love my truck but at $4.09 a gallon it is sitting right now. It was my daily commuter to Columbus. I bought a new Civic Coupe last month and it gets 40 mpg. Actually it's a good thing cause it needs front U-Joints, Brakes, Dif Flush and a Front Dif Rear Seal. I got all the partsthere in the barn.You can see the parts piled up there in thelast pic. Just gotta get a decently warm day to go out and get the stuff in. Of course if it gets too nice, I'll want to ride...lol
Gotta get it done here quick, a few of us are going to Run the Dragon's Tail here in a few weeks. We are trailering down and will need it. Well, catch youlater...
I noticed you live in Findlay. Not really too far away. I live in between Urbana and St. Paris. Did you guys get slammed two weekends ago? Retorical question really, I know you did. We all did! We got about 20 inches here. I bet that snow blower got a workout then huh?
Yeah, looks like we have some of the same likes. Do you have the Cummins or the Hemi? Mine is the Cummins and I love my truck but at $4.09 a gallon it is sitting right now. It was my daily commuter to Columbus. I bought a new Civic Coupe last month and it gets 40 mpg. Actually it's a good thing cause it needs front U-Joints, Brakes, Dif Flush and a Front Dif Rear Seal. I got all the partsthere in the barn.You can see the parts piled up there in thelast pic. Just gotta get a decently warm day to go out and get the stuff in. Of course if it gets too nice, I'll want to ride...lol
Gotta get it done here quick, a few of us are going to Run the Dragon's Tail here in a few weeks. We are trailering down and will need it. Well, catch youlater...
Jonny,
We got hit, but not as bad as your neck of the woods. We saw about 7-8 inches up here, but the blower was out several times that weekend. I'm really sick of this stuff, can wait until the roads are free of ice & salt. It is supposed to warm up (40's) this week so we'll see.
I have the Hemi in my Dodge. I've been driving trucks for 20+ years, but this is my first 3/4 ton and really didn't want to go there. My wife wants to get a 5th wheel sometime, so this is to apeez her. I'm not paying as much for fuel as if it were diesel, but I'm lucky to get 11 MPG with my normal drive. Once the weather breaks, I'll be more than happy to ride The Pearl that gets 40+ MPG - and it is much more enjoyable to ride.
I don't get into that kind of wrenchin on my truck, no problem with accessory bolt on, but drive train work I leave to the pros. I do plan on doing my own standard service on The Pearl though, that is within my reach.
I don't get to do any overnight rides yet, my wife & young kids don't ride so it is tough to get away for a weekend w/o them. Some buddies & I are riding out to Milwaukee this September - the weekend after the big party. We got the OK from our spouses too late in the game to get hotels at a reasonable distance and price for the event.
Have fun on your trip, keep the rubber on the road
Later
We got hit, but not as bad as your neck of the woods. We saw about 7-8 inches up here, but the blower was out several times that weekend. I'm really sick of this stuff, can wait until the roads are free of ice & salt. It is supposed to warm up (40's) this week so we'll see.
I have the Hemi in my Dodge. I've been driving trucks for 20+ years, but this is my first 3/4 ton and really didn't want to go there. My wife wants to get a 5th wheel sometime, so this is to apeez her. I'm not paying as much for fuel as if it were diesel, but I'm lucky to get 11 MPG with my normal drive. Once the weather breaks, I'll be more than happy to ride The Pearl that gets 40+ MPG - and it is much more enjoyable to ride.
I don't get into that kind of wrenchin on my truck, no problem with accessory bolt on, but drive train work I leave to the pros. I do plan on doing my own standard service on The Pearl though, that is within my reach.
I don't get to do any overnight rides yet, my wife & young kids don't ride so it is tough to get away for a weekend w/o them. Some buddies & I are riding out to Milwaukee this September - the weekend after the big party. We got the OK from our spouses too late in the game to get hotels at a reasonable distance and price for the event.
Have fun on your trip, keep the rubber on the road
Later
**Promisy**
New member
I like lights on the rear of my bike,the more the better.So on my last bike,03 Superglide,I installed a pair of 1939 led tail lights in the saddle bags and in my pressent bike 05 EGC a third brake light off e-bay for 10 bucks.
Emotionally Happy.
New member
Hello,
I wanted to do the same thing and mount a garage door opener on my Ultra Classic, however did not want to drill any holes so here is what I did. I went to sears and purchased an extra garage door opener remote. I took it the battery out and took it apart, I shorted the momentary on button that activates the garage door with a short piece of wire (soldered the two switch legs together.) Then I took two wires about 12 inches long and soldered to the two battery terminals on the opener (one to positive, one to negative) and melted two holes in the case the the wires wouldn't be smashed when I reassembled the opener. Then, removed the headlight from my ultra classic, took a piece of double sided tape and taped the opener inside my faring close to the top, above the headlight, wired the positive wire to the headlight high beam lead and the negative to ground, replaced the headlight and voila! Now when I want to open my garage door, I flash my high beams and it applies 12 volts to the opener, since the momentary on button is shorted, the opener sees it as a button press and the garage door opens, when I am safely inside I flash them again and the door closes...works great and no drilling. Cost about $30 bucks total.
Bryan
I wanted to do the same thing and mount a garage door opener on my Ultra Classic, however did not want to drill any holes so here is what I did. I went to sears and purchased an extra garage door opener remote. I took it the battery out and took it apart, I shorted the momentary on button that activates the garage door with a short piece of wire (soldered the two switch legs together.) Then I took two wires about 12 inches long and soldered to the two battery terminals on the opener (one to positive, one to negative) and melted two holes in the case the the wires wouldn't be smashed when I reassembled the opener. Then, removed the headlight from my ultra classic, took a piece of double sided tape and taped the opener inside my faring close to the top, above the headlight, wired the positive wire to the headlight high beam lead and the negative to ground, replaced the headlight and voila! Now when I want to open my garage door, I flash my high beams and it applies 12 volts to the opener, since the momentary on button is shorted, the opener sees it as a button press and the garage door opens, when I am safely inside I flash them again and the door closes...works great and no drilling. Cost about $30 bucks total.
Bryan
I bought an eBay windshield pouch and modified the center one to accept my GPS. I didn't want to see wires hanging around anywhere so I spliced in a spare cigarette lighter inside the fairing and ran the audio cable as pictured. When I close up the pouch it looks like any other, you'd have to really study it to see anything out of the ordinary.
B
!<>BabyGurl<>!
Guest
Finally got it back together. Very happy with the results
The Sex Fist
New member
For those unhappy with the stock horn's performance (or the lack thereof) here's how I replaced the cheesy stock item with a pair of FIAMM Freeway Blaster 130dB electric horns. The installation is simple (takes about an hour or so) and the bike will look completely stock when done. I chose FIAMM's because I've had them on every bike I've ever owned, they're reliable, and they'll wake up the dead! [sm=devilgrin.gif]
I bought the horns from JC Whitney for $36 for a set of 2 (high & low tone.) High tone P/N is ZX133190A and the low tone is P/N ZX133191R. You may be able to find these same horns at a local auto parts store as well.
I bought a roll of 14ga stranded wire, a standard 15 amp fuse holder & fuse, some crimp-on male & female spade connectors, and a 12v, 30A relay (Part #275-226) from Radio Shack at a total cost of about $12.
Remove the stock horn & mount one Fiamm horn where the stock horn was. (No mods are necessary as the FIAMM mounts using the same bracket as the stock horn, & the chrome cowbell cover fits over the new horn so it still looks stock.) Leave the 2 stock horn wires disconnected for now.
The other horn you can mount anywhere. I mounted mine to a frame inboard of the right-hand saddlebag using an existing frame bolt (see pic.)
I mounted the 12v/30A relay in a cubbyhole just forward of the battery under the seat. (Your mount location may vary depending on what you prefer.)
All that's left is the wiring, which is simple (even for the electrically challenged, which I most certainly am) as the 4 terminals on the relay are numbered. Use crimp-on connectors as necessary. Using the diagram on the back of the relay package as a guide:
Using the 14ga wire you bought, lengthen and run the existing horn positive wire to terminal 86 on the relay.
Do the same for the existing horn negative wire & connect to terminal 85 on the relay. (These wires activate the relay when you push the horn button.)
Turn on the ignition and press the horn button- you should hear the relay click. If all is well turn off ignition. If not, double-check your connections.
Next, using the 14ga wire, run a 15A fuse-protected 12v hot wire from the + terminal of the battery to terminal 87 on the relay. (Leave fuse out till all wiring is finished.)
Then run two wires off relay terminal 30/51, connecting one of the wires to a terminal on each of the horns. (These are the hot wires to the horns.)
Each horn will have a terminal remaining. Using the 14ga wire, make a short jumper wire and connect one end to the remaining horn terminal on each horn & the other end to any ground. (I just used any available frame screw close to the horn.)
Tape all connections, then connect the fused hot wire, turn on the ignition, & the horns should blow when you push the stock horn button.
[My picture shows how I mounted & wired the rear horn. The wiring for the front horn under the cowbell is similar.]
I bought the horns from JC Whitney for $36 for a set of 2 (high & low tone.) High tone P/N is ZX133190A and the low tone is P/N ZX133191R. You may be able to find these same horns at a local auto parts store as well.
I bought a roll of 14ga stranded wire, a standard 15 amp fuse holder & fuse, some crimp-on male & female spade connectors, and a 12v, 30A relay (Part #275-226) from Radio Shack at a total cost of about $12.
Remove the stock horn & mount one Fiamm horn where the stock horn was. (No mods are necessary as the FIAMM mounts using the same bracket as the stock horn, & the chrome cowbell cover fits over the new horn so it still looks stock.) Leave the 2 stock horn wires disconnected for now.
The other horn you can mount anywhere. I mounted mine to a frame inboard of the right-hand saddlebag using an existing frame bolt (see pic.)
I mounted the 12v/30A relay in a cubbyhole just forward of the battery under the seat. (Your mount location may vary depending on what you prefer.)
All that's left is the wiring, which is simple (even for the electrically challenged, which I most certainly am) as the 4 terminals on the relay are numbered. Use crimp-on connectors as necessary. Using the diagram on the back of the relay package as a guide:
Using the 14ga wire you bought, lengthen and run the existing horn positive wire to terminal 86 on the relay.
Do the same for the existing horn negative wire & connect to terminal 85 on the relay. (These wires activate the relay when you push the horn button.)
Turn on the ignition and press the horn button- you should hear the relay click. If all is well turn off ignition. If not, double-check your connections.
Next, using the 14ga wire, run a 15A fuse-protected 12v hot wire from the + terminal of the battery to terminal 87 on the relay. (Leave fuse out till all wiring is finished.)
Then run two wires off relay terminal 30/51, connecting one of the wires to a terminal on each of the horns. (These are the hot wires to the horns.)
Each horn will have a terminal remaining. Using the 14ga wire, make a short jumper wire and connect one end to the remaining horn terminal on each horn & the other end to any ground. (I just used any available frame screw close to the horn.)
Tape all connections, then connect the fused hot wire, turn on the ignition, & the horns should blow when you push the stock horn button.
[My picture shows how I mounted & wired the rear horn. The wiring for the front horn under the cowbell is similar.]
0wn3d4life
New member
Great idea im going to do that .u find so much mod here its great
