"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$

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I got asked by a PM to help out--and Im always happy to help

The tweeters will get paralleled in. So--the positive wire from the radio goes into the front speaker, and "y" off to the positive input of the tweeters x-over. The positive output of the crossover will then go to the positive in on the tweeter--do the same for the negative and your all set

The Crossover divides the frequencies of the tweeters from the "mids" so the overall load stays correct. You will be fine if 4 ohm tweets are used.

I have also had guys use Memphis tweets in this config with great results as well

Hope this helps--any other questions, and please email me at [email protected]

PEZ
 
Pez, I know your good at what you do because a lot of people buy your product. I used to do a lot in electronics but it was many years ago, so I have to ask a question;.

From my memory (whats left of it) I recall the laws of resistance and if wired in parallel you have (s1Xs2 / s1+s2) Soif I have the main speaker at 2 ohms and the tweeter at 4 ohms I get
2X4/2+4 and that =1.3 ohms. If I'm doing it wrong please let me know. If that is the case our HD/HK is looking for 2 ohms, therefore it will be really pushing the output transistors.

I was thinking if I use a 1 ohm resistor ( perhaps 10 watt, as I believe you should use 10 watts per every 100W of power) across the positive and negative of the each ( L R) main speaker. Would this work?

Thanks for all your help, and great products.
 
This worries me too, and I eagerly await a clarification. If Pez says it will work reliably, I believe it. Now, I need to research these "Memphis tweets," and looking at them on their site makes me think the all-black design would look better than the Polk tweeters from a visual standpoint. The cost seems to be about the same, so what is best for this application, the soft-dome, aluminum-dome, or power-reference type? The last is considerably cheaper than the first two, $60 vs. $90.

Edit: The aluminum-dome tweeters are on Ebay for $65 w/shipping: http://tinyurl.com/2d62w6
 
Here is the reply from another speaker specilist and it matches what PEZ replied to me;

"When the tweeter with is crossover is wired in parallel with the existing speaker the amp will basically only see the impedance of the original speaker below the cut-off of the tweeter. Above that cut-off frequency the amp will see the tweeter in parallel with the Harley speaker. However, in all likelihood that speaker is a cone with a voice coil that has some inductance so its impedance is actually rising in this range anyway, which means paralleling the tweeter will likely not cause a real drop in the load to below 2 ohms, so all should be good."

So no problem!!
 
Man, this place is a cornucopia of useful info! I'm convinced on the impedence issue, but there are more decisions. First, do I want to drill into my fairing? Ouch! That goes against my grain, as the speakers will need to stay with the bike forever. Second, which speaker to get? Polk or Memphis? Aluminum or silk dome?

Another pressing question is whether or not to install an auxillary amp, which wouldn't affect the speaker decision as long as the amp can operate down to 2Ω.
 
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Man, this place is a cornucopia of useful info! I'm convinced on the impedence issue, but there are more decisions. First, do I want to drill into my fairing? Ouch! That goes against my grain, as the speakers will need to stay with the bike forever. Second, which speaker to get? Polk or Memphis? Aluminum or silk dome?

Another pressing question is whether or not to install an auxillary amp, which wouldn't affect the speaker decision as long as the amp can operate down to 2Ω.



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Get the aluminun as they are weatherproof.....the silk domes will get trashedif they get wet.I have the Memphis PR15's and they sound Geat!

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86E924DFCF274BF7A9D62A9563A9CCE1.jpg
 
Man, this place is a cornucopia of useful info! I'm convinced on the impedence issue, but there are more decisions. First, do I want to drill into my fairing? Ouch! That goes against my grain, as the speakers will need to stay with the bike forever. Second, which speaker to get? Polk or Memphis? Aluminum or silk dome?

Another pressing question is whether or not to install an auxillary amp, which wouldn't affect the speaker decision as long as the amp can operate down to 2Ω.



[/quote]

Get the aluminun as they are weatherproof.....the silk domes will get trashedif they get wet.I have the Memphis PR15's and they sound Geat!

[/quote]

Well, the improvemnet in sound with the tweeters are well worth the holes. Which of course you wont see because the speakers are there. If you sell your bike, yes the low price of the speakers goes with the bike, but in the intrem you now ENJOY the sound!! By the way the Polks are marine rated as well.
 
here is the equasion for figuringohms or resistance in series 2+4=6 ohm load

in parallel 1 devided 2 =.5 1 devided by 4 =.25 so .25+.5=.75 then devide 1 by .75 =1.33 ohms

so if you use a 2 & 4 ohm speaker in parallel your load should be1.33 ohms

if you use a 4 ohm & 4 ohm in parallel cut 4 in half so so it will be 2 ohms
 
Ture, however the impeadence/resistance of a speaker is not constant. The formula aboves assumes a constant resistance, and it a accurate formula for pure resistance. Speakers change resistence as the frequency changes. Two audio experts (not me) were both given the question and both, seperately of eachother came to the same conlusion.

""When the tweeter with is crossover is wired in parallel with the existing speaker the amp will basically only see the impedance of the original speaker below the cut-off of the tweeter. Above that cut-off frequency the amp will see the tweeter in parallel with the Harley speaker. However, in all likelihood that speaker is a cone with a voice coil that has some inductance so its impedance is actually rising in this range anyway, which means paralleling the tweeter will likely not cause a real drop in the load to below 2 ohms, so all should be good."
 
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