Carbs: cleaner in the gas, or take them apart?

N

Nich!

New member
Got 'em all spit shined, cleaner than a whistle. Two of the carbs were pretty gumpy. Put it all back together and tried it. After cranking for a minute or so it started to idle . . . for about 20 seconds. Each time I tried it - pretty much the same: crank for a while, it sputters into a brief idle. It wasn't a smooth idle, but it did idle. I had the choke on full. If I took the choke off at all, it died and wouldn't even fire. If I gave it any gas at all - same result. Gave it a shot of starter fluid and it fired right up for about 3 seconds - then nothing. Now when I crank it for a bit it starts to try to fire but not even enough to call a sputter.

I'm rather at all loss to explain this and I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Ken
 
So, if I understand it correctly, the symptoms haven't changed much, right?

ASSuming that you got the carbs back together right AND that you have the pilot (idle) jets adjustment somewhere in the ballpark then there must be another cause.
A few messages back, I suggested that you empty the tank and put fresh gas in. Have you done that yet?

Maybe instead of not getting enough gas, it is getting too much air, as in a vacume leak somewhere. Not too many places that can be. Most likely is the rubber boots between carbs and engine, then the vacume petcock line, then a head gasket (probably not likely).

There is a remote chance that you have weak spark; the ether ignites MUCH easier than gas.

If it has fresh gas and no vacume leaks, I'm out of ideas.
May have to visit a "doctor". :sad:
 
Well well, it started at last.

I didn't empty the tank because the gas in it is only a few days old. However, it does have about 2 oz. of Seafoam in the gallon or so that's there. I chose Seafoam after reading of its benefits (not from ads, mind you) and hearing from friends as well. But I did add more fresh gas, about another gallon, and I'll add more when I get it. (Living out in the sticks has its good and bad points.)

At first it would start if I cranked it long enough with the choke fully on. Each time I stopped it and tried again it got a little easier. I let it run, rough as it was, thinking it might do good to let it warm up a little and to flush out whatever junk might still be in there. I noted that it wouldn't keep running if I reduced the amount of choke or gave it any throttle.

Then the RPMs started rising. I let them, keeping an eye on the tach. It acted as if the carbs were sticking. I gave it some throttle and it would choke down at first, then speed up when let off, like a delayed reaction.

Now it seems to be getting a little better. The choke does not have to be fully on - in fact it wants to race if it is - and it's beginning to react more normally to the throttle. I don't like the way it's acting with the choke, but if it continues to improve, well . . . Perhaps if I just keep running clean gas through it will work its kinks out and settle into normal behavior.

If any of this sounds wrong or like something bad's going on please let me know. Thank you very much for all your help and for listening to a rather inexperienced wrench (read: duh!) learn a thing or two . . . ok, lots of things. :^)

Ken
 
Well, here's the thing........While Seafoam is good with light crud and for keeping the fuel system clean, it is NOT much good for removing serious crud which it appears you might have in some tiny little passage that your cleaning missed.

If it continues to improve and gets back to "normal" after a tankful of fresh gas, you're in good shape. If not, you need to get the Seafoam mostly out, by running or draining, and get some serious cleaner in there......like original formula Gumout (carb cleaner, NOT injector cleaner) or Berryman's B-12. Like you did with the Seafoam, I'd start with 1/2 tank or less and add cleaner at twice the recommended rate. Then after running for a day or two, fill up the tank.

Glad to hear that you're making some progress.....at last!
 
I have an 80 GS500L. I had to replace the sparkplugs and then hit it with the seafoam. It took a couple rides and a day of setting and then it cleaned out the carbs. So far I am impressed! The idle went down and the engine didn't cut out at every light! Give that a try first!
 
One quick question: There's an oil level indicator window. Is this supposed to be checked while on the center stand? On the side stand? While running or stopped (stopped, right?) The owner's manual says to add until full, not to over fill or run while less than 'Low' but it says nothing about the position of the bike while checking it.
Mine's full while on the center stand, but shows empty when I put it on the side stand.
 
As do they ALL !:shock:

You're fine. I believe you are actually supposed to stand the bike straight up with both wheels on the ground but after you do that once and compare the "reading" to what it is on the center stand, then you can just use the center stand from then on.
 
Thanks, Ken! I kind of thought so but wanted to make sure. I used to have a Honda and it had a dipstick. (not the rider . . . . usually)

Now to go run some gas through it. If it doesn't improve I'll dump it out and try some gumout. Thanks again for your help!
 
:D Today I WENT FOR A RIDE! Yesterday I broke down the carbs as completely as I possibly could, cleaned everything with carb cleaner, toothpicks, toothbrushes, custom made tools - everything I could think of - down to every last tiny groove, every nook & cranny, anywhere with any accessibilty. Then I put it all back together and viola! It runs! A little rough at first but smoothing out with each mile I ride.

I want to express a Huge thank you to everyone who helped me out with your sage advice, especially Easy Rider who stuck with me through my darkest hour. lol! Seriously, Thanks, Ken! You're True Blue! :bluethum:
 
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