C50T front brake upgrade

X

Xx Evelyne xX

New member
Has anybody upgraded the front disc brake to a larger rotor? I have about 3500 miles on my '06 and in stop-and-go traffic the brake seems to work a little to hard, IMO.

I seems to want to grab a little harder than I think it should.
 
You really can't upgrade the size of the rotor, because the caliper mounts are fixed, plus you need larger calipers and pads. You would also need to find a larger rotor that bolts on.

A larger rotor, in itself, does not actually dictate better stopping power, so much as a better heat dissipation rate GIVING you better stopping power. The less heat there is, the better (firmer) stopping power you have. We all know, when a rotor heats up, the less braking you have. Larger rotors have more surface area, thus less heat due to a better dissipation rate. IF you could AIR CONDITION (no such thing) a smaller rotor, you would then have superior stopping power than a larger one, because the disc is 50% cooler at all times, since it is forcefully cooled (this system does not exist, but the application is sound).

Say you had a solid rotor on the bike, the stopping would be worse than what you have now, as the rotor heats up, even if it were the same size, or even a half inch bigger. The ones you/we have are drilled, like a cheese grater, just grabs better, but doesn't dissipate heat like slotted rotors would. Slotting would help with the heat dissipation rate, thus better firmer braking.

However, IF the forks were wider, you could go with the C90 dual front rotor set up, with its front wheel and brake assy. You could just buy the whole front end and use it, but not worth it really.
 
There's probably more bang to be had for your buck to be had by replacing the brake line with a steel one. It's on my list of things to get.
 
That's one of those "mystery" fixes. Logic tells you that it shouldn't make that much difference but by it actually does.

Also a set of after-market pads would probably help too.
No doubt somebody can recommend which ones. I can't.

P.S. Mark, fellow Illini, if you would fill in your profile with your location and type of bike, you wouldn't need it in your sig.
 
Rubber hoses expand when the brake system gets hot. Steel braided lines do not, so they keep great lever feel, and performance. This expansion gives you the "gummy" feel when braking. All the braided line does is keep the braking constant in all operating temperatures. It takes less hand pressure to brake with braided steel, than with rubber due to the expansion of the rubber hose.

Most rubber lines are supposed to be replaced every 3 years, while braided stainless steel lines should last the life of the bike. Ask anyone who has used braided brake lines. They know the night and day difference that they make to the brake system, and generally won't go back to rubber hoses.
 
I upgraded from rubber brake line to stainless braided 10,000km ago.
I don't believe that there is any PERFORMANCE difference.

But there is a big FEEL difference.

I can hold the brake just grabbing, or almost locked, at will.
 
"P.S. Mark, fellow Illini, if you would fill in your profile with your location and type of bike, you wouldn't need it in your sig."
thanks but I couldn't think of anything else to put in my sig yet :)

Peter-reebok, where did you get your line?
 
I got it mail order from JP cycles. Goodridge.

The local Goodridge dealer here is Aust wanted me to send in my OEM line, and they would make one up, then send it back, within 6 weeks.

Received mail order from the States to Aust in 5 days. And I still have the oem one, and didn't lose any riding time.

Make sure you get the plastic coated line, as the naked steel braids will wear through anything in their way real quick otherwise.
 
Racing (cage) folks have been using SS-braided brake lines for years. If you do the line, make sure to get all the air out. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, so replacing it (full flush, etc) will help. Silicone brake fluid is also available, but I do not know if it is compatible with Suz brake components - it will eat the wrong kind of seals. The object is to get rid of all expansion-flex and also raise the operational boiling point of the system.

The only other option is to look at Brembo's site and look for a carbon-fiber rotor. I would just guess that one rotor would be somewhere near $1K USD.

Perhaps worthless conversation, but maybe of interest?
 
I replaced my stock brakes with the EBC brake pads. WOW what a difference and worth the extra few dollars. They never fade no matter how hard you ride them.
 
braided lines help with expansion due to temperature AND pressure, so you get good benefits that way. heat is sort of good, sort of bad. some pads work best dead-cold (street pads are tailored for that), some work best warmed up (performance pads), and others need to be toasty hot (race / track pads).

as for rotors - hmm, drilled gives more surface area, but less heat soaking mass, so i'm not sure that they're BETTER for cooling. the one advantage (more surface area) might just about cancel out the disadvantage (less mass to absorb heat away from pads / calipers). they were used decades ago with ancient pads that would outgas, but that's no longer much of an issue. they are lighter, though, and help to shed water better - both of those are quite important on a bike since the whole brake is totally exposed. slotted is also used - less fancy than drilled, though, but likely just as effective.


first thing i'd try regardless of bike / car / etc, is a different set of pads. you can easily swap back and forth to compare and see which gives you the braking feel and power you need.
 
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