C50 oil Change

N

Nintendo-Miranda

New member
If I were you, I'd stick with the Rotella 15w-40; I'll the reading/searching that I've done on the internet (and my own experience) shows that the Volusia/C50 motor likes oil a bit on the heavy side. I've been using 20w50 this season and it's held up well. Of course, YMMV.
 
The manual only says to use API "SJ", "SF", "SH" or "SG" certified oils, and recommends you do not use Enegery Conserving oil. It also says you can use JASP "MA" certified... JASO is their designation for our API.

It does not DEMAND you use JASO certified, it is one of the five options available.

ANY Synthetic with those API certifications are usable!

IT does say to use SAE 10W40, but has others on the chart, even 20W50, you go buy outside ambient temperature.
 
I wrote it. Me. Mark Lawrence. Since you ask. Calsci is my company.

And, you should not ever use non-synthetic 10w-40 in an engine that shares oil with the transmission. Such oils have a useful life expectancy in a motorcycle engine of about 1500 miles.

Most modern motorcycles are water cooled, so the oil temperature is determined by the thermostat. Outside air temperature is irrelevant. The fact that most owners manuals still show different oil viscosities for different air temperatures simply proves that they're a cut and paste job from a 30 year old source by an english major.

My article, the one quoted, which you write off as "someone blowing smoke" has been used as a training manual for sales and marketing people at Chevron oil. The oil engineers recommended it to them.

Isn't it fun posting derogatory comments on the internet from an anonymous account?
 
OK, listen, you want my address and phone number? Send me a PM and I'll buy you a beer sometime.

The possiblility that you are a nice guy and actually are convinced that what you believe is actually true......doesn't change the fact that most of the educated world does not agree with your conclusions.

That doesn't necessarily mean that you are wrong; just that you are in a TINY minority.

Outside air temperature is NOT irrelevant as the oil sump cooling is accomplished by more things than it's coupling to the cooling system.

Your time would be better spent in imparting your superior knowledge to the companies making bikes, cars, tractors, lawn mowers, etc. etc.

Unless and until you can convince a significant portion of THEM, then I consider you to be a self-proclaimed expert and your opinions remain suspect.

Sorry but that's MY opinion.
 
The above quote is directly from calsci.com. It's clear to me that you have your opinion about oil. You have a webpage. Therefore, you are another person, with another opinion on the internet. Of which there are millions.

I'm with EasyRider on this one. Until you convince companies producing the motorcycles, you're self-proclaimed. Until Suzuki tells me not to put regular old 10w40 in my bike, it's your opinion that I shouldn't.
 
I'm with EasyRider on this one. Until you convince companies producing the motorcycles, you're self-proclaimed. Until Suzuki tells me not to put regular old 10w40 in my bike, it's your opinion that I shouldn't.[/quote]

I would have to say the suzuki engineers must be dumber than a box of rocks. The manual for my S50 says use 10w40 in most temp. ranges. They must not even know my cycle is water cooled. How else could they disagree with a person with an opinion and a web site. :P

Yes EasyRider is correct. You are free to have an opinion, we all will recognize that what you say is an opinion, we all have them from time to time. Welcome to the world of opinions!

:whistle:

Old Codger
 
Maybe it''s just me or I don't know what I'm looking at but am the only one that finds it difficult to see the oil in the site glass?

Also, I was thinking about changing my own oil - can I do this while the bike sits on the stand or do I need to get a lift?
 
You don't need a lift. As far as seeing the site glass, if the 50 is the same as the 90 then it is difficult. I made it impossible to see the glass by installing pipes that mostly cover it. I don't have a lift so I grab my neighbor to look into the magic glass. Ain't I smart?
 
Mark, what I find amazing isn't your opinion on oil, but your statement that most modern motorcycles are water cooled. I just bought an '07 C90T last April, and it's oil/air cooled. Because the C50 is water cooled, I would have thought the C90 is also water cooled, but not so.

My friend's Harley manual says that if he can't find Harley oil, use a high grade diesel oil. I use Rotella T diesel oil in my C90T, and it works fine.
 
If you change the thermostat to a lower temp, or drill a 1/8" hole in the stat, the overall engine temp WILL DROP. The operating temperature for 4-stroke engines are governed by a few things; emissions (top reason), and combustion efficiency as the top two, the other for CARS is heat in the interior. So, why is there a thermostat in these bikes? EMISSIONS and EFFICIENCY only, since there is no real catalyst system. AND, the temp musy be high for a catalyst system to even work. This is why short trips r (under 5 miles), you produce higher emissions than at full operating temp.

Remove the thermostat and see what happens. MPG will drop, but the engine will be cooler than ever. I have done this with cars and bikes, and I know what the results are. Bash this all you want, but till you do the math and REMOVE the stat, or drill a hole for bypass, you have NO CLUE.

If you use Synthetic 10W40 or 20W50 (higher climate areas) you will be fine all across the board. I have a car with 128,000+ miles, all original w/2.5 V6, used Syn since DAY ONE and it runs like DAY ONE too. Oh, and it is a DODGE, and it's still running like I just bought it.

There is no reason for these bikes to run as hot as they do except for FEDERAL emissions laws, period. However, I am sure I will see what the S.S. has to say about it...
 
No, you have LOTS of company. :bluethum:

Best suggestion I have seen is: Get another person to help hold the bike upright. This also allows you to observe the window as the bike is being set upright from a lean. The oil level in the window is often easier to see when it is moving.

Now.........if you had a bike that weighs only 300 lbs., then you could manage it all yourself!! :whistle: :mrgreen:
 
You can easily check the oil level yourself, just go to the auto store first and pick up a telescoping mechanic's mirror. I got the one from Advance Auto as it has a larger mirror than others I've seen. Then get on the bike & bring it upright and angle the mirror to view the sight glass.
 
That's what I do. Actually, any old mirror will do. I have a small one my wife gave me and I keep it in my riding jacket. I still would prefer a good ole dipstick to this window idea. Now, the question is, how do you check the coolant level? The manual says to look in it's window but, there's a cover on it. The only way I can think of is to remove the cover. Just a minor pain in the backside.
 
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