C50 oil Change

G

glespaul12

New member
Have 05 C50 Black, bought used from a Honda dealer. Has no owners manual.
Oil in the site-glass is starting to look dark, ready to change the oil.

How many quarts does the C50 hold.
Any recomendations on an oil additive? or not to bother?
 
In Canada, whatever you buy, the manuals come both in English and French. [At least this is the case in B.C.]

My English manual is in the tool compartment on the bike and I'm lazy to go downstairs to look your question up but I found the French version in my office. While I know no French, I can make out that C50 [2007 model] holds 3400 ml [3.59274 quarts, liquid US] with filter and 3000 ml [3.170065 quarts, liquid US] without the filter. I kind of remember that the quantity is stamped around the oil sight glass also.

Yeah, you guessed it, we're metric in Canada [unit conversion]
 
I looked in the tool compartment and under the seat. Contacted the dealer I bought it from (Useless People).

Ordered one from the Suzuki dealer on Hagerstown today.

Thanks for the info, changing the oil in the morning.
 
I've been reading a lot of threads about oil here in this forum and others as well, and am still undecided about which brand and weight to use. Not knowing the full history of the bike and close inspection looks as though the oil has never been changed. When I bought the bike a month ago, it had 1600 miles on it, it now has about 2000, the oil in the site-glass is just starting to turn color, still pretty much clear w/ a hint of brown.
A lot of local bikers have advised me not to use a syn-oil on such a new motor. I hear pro's and con's on both types.
I have also been told that if I do use a syn, then I can't go back to regular oil, and at this point, i'm not sure what is actually in it.
Any other suggestions?
:?:
 
I think as long as it is clean and non-energy conserving it should be good. Engines love clean oil. As you have probably read there are plusses to using the synthetic stuff such as clinging better to the metal when not running so less friction on start up. Happy wrenching!

Boston
 
according to service manual, ( dont forget to take some of the oil and lightly coat new filter gasket)you hand tighten until gasket contacts metal(MAKE SURE OLD GASKET CAME OFF WITH OLD FILTER) and then turn with wrench 2 full turns. I did my first last week and went 1 3/4 turns.
No leaks no problems. I also used the KN chrome(PN-KN138C) and it has a 17 mm nut on end of filter. I am not endorsing KN but just saying it makes change easier..
 
Anytime you buy a USED car or bike, change the oil immediately, because you never know. I bought a Vulcan in 2004 ('03 model with 6K on it), and let the oil go thinking, they are a dealer, they do what's needed *WRONG*!! The clutch started getting real chattery and grabby when hot, and just didn't feel or sound right, the bottom end knocked like hell. SO, after about 1000 miles, I decide to change the BLACK oil. Well, the bike takes about 3.7 quarts, and I only got 2.5 quarts out of it!! Yep, the oil was low, and the low end of the bike made noise. Well, that all stopped with the oil change... If a DEALER can't get it right, then don't bet on a private owner doing it right either... Even with new 20W50, when the bike got real hot, the clutch was sloppy, not as bad as before though...

Anyhow, I traded in the V800 Classic on the C50T, when it got hot, the clutch felt like the Vulcan did, so after the break in, I went with Synthetic oil, and the clutch is smooth ALL The time now. I used 20W50 JASO certified Synthetic, as the user manual said you can use that in certain temperatures, and I will never ride in the winter.

When I had the Vulcan, I used regular 20W50 motor oil, and I put over 8K on the bike with no problems. There is no real mechanical difference between a car 4-stroke and MC 4-stroke in how they WORK, except the RPM range is higher with the MC, and other things, thus more friction, breaks down oil faster, which is why Synthetic is a good idea.

NEVER use friction modifiers and additives with a WET clutch, it will/can cause the clutch to slip on hills and hard throttle...

People will argue with me about oil, but I have owned SEVERAL bikes, all Japanese, and I even had bikes with over 98K miles on them. I always used regular 20W50 motor oil them, all the time, and I have NEVER EVER had a problem, or mechanical failure. I Sold the bikes, and no one ever brought it back with a bad engine, or complained later about it. Just as long as you DO NOT use the Energy Conserving oil, even the synthetic type. Stick with 10W40 in colder climates (for starting) and I always have used 20W50 in my region, for ALL my bikes.
 
What region is that?

I live in Berkeley Springs, West Virginia. Really hot in the summer and really cold in the winter. Like you, I will not be riding in the winter.

I called the local Suzuki dealer and they told me they are using "Honda 10-W-40" for their oil changes. I also called the local Honda dealer, where I purchcased the bike (It was a trade-in), and they also use 10-W-40.
Which all seems odd to me, because most of the research I have done has advised not to use 10-W-40 on any bike that has a wet clutch.

I have had the bike a little over a month, and have only only put 400 miles on it so far. So far the only annoyance is a slight clunk when shifting gears and it seems to run a lil too rich when I first start it up, other than that, it runs great. No engine noise or vibrations.

I did cut the baffels out of the pipes, Sounds great when riding down the road, but at idle, it sounds like my outboard boat motor, lol.

Summer time here, is horrible for the locals, even in cars due to all the tourist in town, who would rather look at all the old buildings than keep their eye on the road. Being a new rider, I have not yet gained the confidence to get out on the Interstate yet, but I have gained a lot of experience on our mountian curves and steep inclines, declines as well as avoiding low speed accidents in town with all the sight-see'ers. I did drop it once, the second day I had it due to a tractor trailer in my lane on a blind curve comming off the mountian, I had no choice but to hit the gravel and go down. The tractor part took up my lane while the trailer took up the other. All it did to the bike was scratch the front fender and gas tank. I repainted the fender, and buffed the tank. Also had the forks checked out and they were fine.

Anyway I'm headed to the garage to change the oil.
I'll post again about any differences I notice or don't.
 
Somebody is confused or your research is flawed.

In general, the oils with a leading 5 or 0 (5W30) are the ones with friction modifiers and are labeled as energy conserving. Those are the ones to avoid. AFAIK, nobody makes an energy conserving 10W40.

Many (if not all somewhere on the temp. chart) manufacturers recommend 10W40.
 
Ooooo....EXECUTIVE SUMMARY. Sounds authoratative doesn't it?
It is B.S.

Who or what is calsci.com? And who is the author of said "executive summary"? Somebody blowing smoke, it appears.

Just remember: To every question there is (usually) only one right answer. There are, however, an infinite number of WRONG answers.........and they all appear on the Internet somewhere !!!!!!

I would trust Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, etc. before I would trust that article. I think 10W40 is THE weight most widely recommended by the manufacturers.

Methinks you worry too much!
 
Thanks for your input, much apperciated.
Oil is changed, runs great, no leaks.
Next oil change, I'll use 10W40, but for now it has 15W40 RotellT in it.


Yep!, I probably do. The bike is new to me and I want to take care if it.
Thats why I ask for advise here. You seem to know a lot about them and I trust your judgement. Yet, I do try to look around and find out what others are doing as well.

Thanks again.
 
Make darn sure the old filter gasket comes off with the old filter. Ive heared horror stories of those who didnt remove it.
Also, check your oil with the bike level, not on the sidestand. Good luck.
 
To reiterate what someone said up above: tighten 2 full turns as per owners manual. If the oil leaks and gets on the tire it could cause problems in turns like sliding out from under you.

I'm sure you will get alot of fun out of the bike.

Cheers, Boston
 
Opinions come a dime a dozen on these forums and from your lhs. My lhs said to go with 10w30 full synthetic, which I did. It still clanks during shifting at times, maybe should have gone with 10w40. He said all the manufactures are starting to come out with a general oil of 10w30 weight.
Hog Wash !
Anyway, congrats on the bike and your oil change, everything will be fine.
Those interstates can be intimidating, I rarely ride I-75 to work. I'll take backroads and is much more relaxing.:cool:
Ride safe,
John
 
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