irishbloke1986
New member
OK I guess I will give a story line.
2 weeks ago I installed a 1200 watt BOSS amplifier for my bass....
A 16 foot long 4 gauge wire is going from the positive off the battery, to the amp power.
1 2 foot 4 guage wire is grounding the amp.
1 wire going to the remote on in my head unit.
1 week ago, my battery light comes on.
2 days after that, I unhook the power from battery to amp.
1 day after that, I see that the battery light is still on, and then there was a new problem which freaked me out: Check Engine Light is on.
1 hour after the check engine light was on I experienced low dimmed headlights, interior lighting, and when I was in Drive, it felt like it was in first gear. I heard a clicking sound, or "Tapping" sound. I turned off my car, then I couldn't start it. I got it jumped, it did the same thing. I left it charging on a friends car for about 20 minutes, then it was fine. Everything ran perfectly.
The next day I did a battery test, and alternator test also.
The battery was at 8 Volts, and the alternator I was told was not charging anything.
What did I do wrong?
I am being told that since I have a 98 with the 135,000 miles, maybe it was about time. I am being suspicious that I need to be replacing the alternator with one that has a greater output power, but I am only finding 75 amp output with all the brands.
The real question is:
Why did this happen? No I didn't "properly" ground the amplifier. I thought the bolt in the trunk was all I needed... Does paint need to be scraped off to bare metal? ? (OOPS!)
Any suggestions???
And where the heck does a "Capacitor" come in with this equasion??
Oh and I don't know if this is true or not, but one of my friends was drunk last night and he SWORE that you needed to connect the negative from the battery to the power......... of the amp. I said .... "What the heck are you talking about man??!!?!?!?"
True? False?
PLEASE ANSWER ALL OF THE ABOVE THANKS!!!!!!!
2 weeks ago I installed a 1200 watt BOSS amplifier for my bass....
A 16 foot long 4 gauge wire is going from the positive off the battery, to the amp power.
1 2 foot 4 guage wire is grounding the amp.
1 wire going to the remote on in my head unit.
1 week ago, my battery light comes on.
2 days after that, I unhook the power from battery to amp.
1 day after that, I see that the battery light is still on, and then there was a new problem which freaked me out: Check Engine Light is on.
1 hour after the check engine light was on I experienced low dimmed headlights, interior lighting, and when I was in Drive, it felt like it was in first gear. I heard a clicking sound, or "Tapping" sound. I turned off my car, then I couldn't start it. I got it jumped, it did the same thing. I left it charging on a friends car for about 20 minutes, then it was fine. Everything ran perfectly.
The next day I did a battery test, and alternator test also.
The battery was at 8 Volts, and the alternator I was told was not charging anything.
What did I do wrong?
I am being told that since I have a 98 with the 135,000 miles, maybe it was about time. I am being suspicious that I need to be replacing the alternator with one that has a greater output power, but I am only finding 75 amp output with all the brands.
The real question is:
Why did this happen? No I didn't "properly" ground the amplifier. I thought the bolt in the trunk was all I needed... Does paint need to be scraped off to bare metal? ? (OOPS!)
Any suggestions???
And where the heck does a "Capacitor" come in with this equasion??
Oh and I don't know if this is true or not, but one of my friends was drunk last night and he SWORE that you needed to connect the negative from the battery to the power......... of the amp. I said .... "What the heck are you talking about man??!!?!?!?"
True? False?
PLEASE ANSWER ALL OF THE ABOVE THANKS!!!!!!!