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All this talk about camshafts but.....
- Thread starter Megan W
- Start date
christi_baycity
New member
Match the componants correctly and you'll have a hard time getting the stupid grin off your face. Put the wrong cam in, and you might wind up frustrated everytime you go for a ride.
I grew up building hot rods, and I learned early on how easy it is to make a fast car slow by putting in too much cam. One of my mentors always lectured me to pick out the cam I wanted to put in the motor, then go one smaller. It's hard to do that when you're chasing speed, but I've found that for the most part, he was right.
The other trap I try to avoid is over-analyzing dyno charts. You can't always tell how fast a bike is going to be or how it's going to behave on the street just by studying a dyno chart. A WOT pull on a dyno doesn't necessarily tell you how the bike is going to feel on the street, when you're not at WOT.
Go big or go home, as they say. (Except with cams, then I say go big and then go one smaller. )
I grew up building hot rods, and I learned early on how easy it is to make a fast car slow by putting in too much cam. One of my mentors always lectured me to pick out the cam I wanted to put in the motor, then go one smaller. It's hard to do that when you're chasing speed, but I've found that for the most part, he was right.
The other trap I try to avoid is over-analyzing dyno charts. You can't always tell how fast a bike is going to be or how it's going to behave on the street just by studying a dyno chart. A WOT pull on a dyno doesn't necessarily tell you how the bike is going to feel on the street, when you're not at WOT.
Go big or go home, as they say. (Except with cams, then I say go big and then go one smaller. )
In my 2010 Ultra I installed a SE Venitlator intake, PCV, Fuel Moto's Exhaust header with V&H oval slip-ons and the TW6-6 cams. I believe that Jaimie at FM and Bob Woods have done an excellent job putting this package together ( I think I spent about $1300 for everything, reused the V&H slip ons). From 2800 rpms on it is incredible, sure you can spend more and get a lot more but I have seen a lot more being spent with less performance realized. One other key component to this combination is a good tune. Jamie did mine and it runs great, no issues what so ever. It runs around town great, you would never know that you have the ability to eat a stock and many modified bikes alive. On the hiway you have a great amount of roll on power, I down shift a lot less often now. One other thing to mention is when Jamie tunes it he is tuning every cell on the fuel table page on your PCV. He takes a lot of time doing it too make sure it is right. I am sure he is doing a lot of other things too.
Sorry for the long post, Hope it helps. ( I am running 98 ft. lbs of T and 93 HP)
Jeff
Jeff
Sorry for the long post, Hope it helps. ( I am running 98 ft. lbs of T and 93 HP)
Jeff
Jeff
There is a very big difference between a stock bike and one with exhaust, stage 1 AC, cams, and a good tune. Big difference! And yes it is worth the investment. As already posted, if you are upgrading the engine then plan carefully, talk with a builder, and ask lots of questions.
By the way everything I mentioned less the cams gave a small but noticiable performance improvement. The cams made a huge difference.
By the way everything I mentioned less the cams gave a small but noticiable performance improvement. The cams made a huge difference.
Kris young
New member
That sounds great! My plan is to leave the motor stock, no larger pistons or headwork. I am also planning on getting an autotune on the PCV as well. I'm hoping that Jamie can get the tune close and theautotune will really nail it. Now the only problem I'm having is choosing a cam primarily because I have no idea where I ride. Since the Road King doesn't have a tach I have no idea where in the rpm range I shift.......... any advice? I ride two up 80% of the time if that matters and like solid roll on performance. Lastly, any huge difference between SE, Andrews, Woods and HQ cams as far as quality/cost go?
brianna_chelsea
New member
I personally lean towards the Woods 6-6's, but that's just because that's what I've got and I love them, they have great pulling power all through the range from 2K on up and really hit at 2700+. Any of the cams I mentioned above should suit your purposes well. I ride a bagger and am 2up 80% of the time and these cams pull hard with both of us on it and fully loaded. I'm sure that most of us feel that we've got great cams regardless of which kind we've got though. Here's a dyno chard from this Spring when I had Jamie do mine and as I stated earlier, I'm very happy with it.
And while it is true, that you don't "ride a dyno chart", this one works perfectly for me as the torque is highest right in the RPM range that I normally ride in. I can't tell you what your riding style is, only you can figure that out. As far as not having a tach, when you ride with other people do you usually shift before or after them? That should give you an idea of if you ride in the higher RPM's or lower. Or ride with someone that's got a tach and tell them to ride next to you for awhile and tell you what RPM range you're spending most of your time in.
And while it is true, that you don't "ride a dyno chart", this one works perfectly for me as the torque is highest right in the RPM range that I normally ride in. I can't tell you what your riding style is, only you can figure that out. As far as not having a tach, when you ride with other people do you usually shift before or after them? That should give you an idea of if you ride in the higher RPM's or lower. Or ride with someone that's got a tach and tell them to ride next to you for awhile and tell you what RPM range you're spending most of your time in.