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2000 Dodge Intrepid knock on left side of engine?
- Thread starter bandit_60
- Start date
T
theoneill06
Guest
2.7L with 160k miles. A few weeks ago, the engine started to 'knock' a bit when I would start it up. After driving it for a bit, it would stop unless it sat for a while.
My friend and I changed the oil with 5w-30 synthetic. When the oil was draining, the oil color was a brass color and had alot of metal shaving in it. Now after, changing the oil, it has the 'knock' when I start it and sometimes when I drive it for a while. It doesn't do it all the time though.
I haven't noticed any change in performance or gas mileage.
I haven't checked the compression yet., which I think should be the next step.
I'm not sure if knock is the right word to describe the sound but I know it's not the valves either. I have also read about the problems these engines have with a knock but I don't think (and hoping) that's not it.
My friend told me it could be a camshaft bushing.
I've also read online that it could be the main bearings but I don't know.
My friend and I changed the oil with 5w-30 synthetic. When the oil was draining, the oil color was a brass color and had alot of metal shaving in it. Now after, changing the oil, it has the 'knock' when I start it and sometimes when I drive it for a while. It doesn't do it all the time though.
I haven't noticed any change in performance or gas mileage.
I haven't checked the compression yet., which I think should be the next step.
I'm not sure if knock is the right word to describe the sound but I know it's not the valves either. I have also read about the problems these engines have with a knock but I don't think (and hoping) that's not it.
My friend told me it could be a camshaft bushing.
I've also read online that it could be the main bearings but I don't know.
dallenmarket
New member
Brass could indicate cam bushings or valve guides. Any brass in the engine oil means serious problems. Get it fixed now or buy a new engine later. Your choice. I don't think the mains are the problem as they are in the lower center of the engine. You have cams and valve guides in each head and a knock in the left side would lead me to check the left head. If a compression check comes back low in 1 or more cylinders, I'd say valve guide(s) (won't see any real loss of power until the valve starts trying to eat the head.) If good compression, check the cam(s). Be advised that a bad cam bearing/bushing will cause other damage very quickly as it slaps around and hits valves hard or not enough to open them properly at the correct time.
I'm not familiar with the wrist pin bushings on that model, but some cars have brass bushings there too. That would give some piston slap on the side with the bad bushing. It could lead to the rod separating from the piston and going through the side of the block as well as the piston itself hitting against the top of the chamber, damaging the valves and head!
I'm not familiar with the wrist pin bushings on that model, but some cars have brass bushings there too. That would give some piston slap on the side with the bad bushing. It could lead to the rod separating from the piston and going through the side of the block as well as the piston itself hitting against the top of the chamber, damaging the valves and head!
dallenmarket
New member
Brass could indicate cam bushings or valve guides. Any brass in the engine oil means serious problems. Get it fixed now or buy a new engine later. Your choice. I don't think the mains are the problem as they are in the lower center of the engine. You have cams and valve guides in each head and a knock in the left side would lead me to check the left head. If a compression check comes back low in 1 or more cylinders, I'd say valve guide(s) (won't see any real loss of power until the valve starts trying to eat the head.) If good compression, check the cam(s). Be advised that a bad cam bearing/bushing will cause other damage very quickly as it slaps around and hits valves hard or not enough to open them properly at the correct time.
I'm not familiar with the wrist pin bushings on that model, but some cars have brass bushings there too. That would give some piston slap on the side with the bad bushing. It could lead to the rod separating from the piston and going through the side of the block as well as the piston itself hitting against the top of the chamber, damaging the valves and head!
I'm not familiar with the wrist pin bushings on that model, but some cars have brass bushings there too. That would give some piston slap on the side with the bad bushing. It could lead to the rod separating from the piston and going through the side of the block as well as the piston itself hitting against the top of the chamber, damaging the valves and head!