The Hankerchief
New member
A buddy of mine is giving me a 1972 Ford Thunderbird (for free! Why do all these people give me free classic cars? It's really uncanny!). There's a catch, however. I have to switch out the old fuel pump (he already got a new one, which he is giving me, I just have to switch out the old one). Aside from disabling the power to the pump, what else should I do before installing it?
Also, my friend done went and got an Edelbrock four-barrel carburetor to put on there, only he was trying to put a spacer underneath it. The carburetor went on fine, but the threads of the engine block weren't big enough to put the spacer on. Can I just have the carb on without the spacer? He has new threads to put in, but the part that screws into the block on one of them is stripped and is harder to get off than a Catholic school girl's chastity belt.
Also, some punk broke into the impound yard where it's parked (my friend works at a towing company, and he is keeping it there) and smashed a few windows on some of the impounded cars. The driver's door window (it's a coupe) was one of them. Currently I've jury rigged a complicated system of zip ties, tarps, and buoy line (from my dad's fishing trawler) to keep the inside dry, but I'm having a devil of a time finding a replacement window (72-73 is the year most muscle cars like the T-bird here were shunned in favor of smaller, more fuel efficient vehicles. Not very many exist today). Is there a place that can custom-fabricate a new one?
I appreciate any advice or suggestions. Thanks!
I meant disable the pump and de-pressurize the fuel in the lines before working on any fuel components. Doesn't matter if it's mechanical or electrical, they both have a driving force going to them, making them work, right?
Also, my friend done went and got an Edelbrock four-barrel carburetor to put on there, only he was trying to put a spacer underneath it. The carburetor went on fine, but the threads of the engine block weren't big enough to put the spacer on. Can I just have the carb on without the spacer? He has new threads to put in, but the part that screws into the block on one of them is stripped and is harder to get off than a Catholic school girl's chastity belt.
Also, some punk broke into the impound yard where it's parked (my friend works at a towing company, and he is keeping it there) and smashed a few windows on some of the impounded cars. The driver's door window (it's a coupe) was one of them. Currently I've jury rigged a complicated system of zip ties, tarps, and buoy line (from my dad's fishing trawler) to keep the inside dry, but I'm having a devil of a time finding a replacement window (72-73 is the year most muscle cars like the T-bird here were shunned in favor of smaller, more fuel efficient vehicles. Not very many exist today). Is there a place that can custom-fabricate a new one?
I appreciate any advice or suggestions. Thanks!
I meant disable the pump and de-pressurize the fuel in the lines before working on any fuel components. Doesn't matter if it's mechanical or electrical, they both have a driving force going to them, making them work, right?