C
cycleshopwest
Guest
Oil pressure will be low unless you're using the factory specified SAE 50 oil, anything thinner or a multi-grade will result in low pressure. There is a Circulation Indicator Light Switch that is basically a spring and a diaphram. The rubber gets old and cracked and it leaks, so even though there is adequate oil pressure in the engine, the light stays on because the oil pressure can't push the leaky diaphram up enough to turn off the switch. There is a Pressure Regulating Valve with an adjustment screw that will allow a maximum of 35 psi "at high engine speed". The manual does not specify what the oil pressure should be at idle or any other RPM. The best thing to check is inside the tank while the engine is running, you should see a pulsing flow of oil coming into the tank. If you see a pulsing flow of oil coming into the tank, then the system is fine. Problems with oil flow can also sometimes be blamed on one of the two check valves or the centrifugal valve. Oil pump adjustment is listed as "normal setting - head of pressure regulating valve adjusting screw 3/8" from face of pump body".
Compression - It doesn't specify what the results of a compression test should be, but the spec for engine compression ratio is 5:1 for a factory engine. Depending on how much has been decked off the heads or other mods it could be as high as 6.5:1. I'd be surprised if you could kick 150 pounds of pressure on a standard compression test.
Valve timing - remove cover, make sure marks are aligned as follows:
(left to right) ALL THESE WILL ALIGN AT THE SAME TIME
1st - Rear Exhaust Cam Gear timing mark at 2 o'clock aligned with Rear Intake Cam Gear
2nd - Rear Intake Cam Gear, has three marks, one at 9 o'clock pointing to Rear Exhaust CG, one at 5 o'clock pointing at pinion gear, one at 3 o'clock pointing at Front Intake Cam Gear.
3rd - Front Intake Cam Gear timing marks at 9 o'clock pointing at Rear Intake CG, and 4 o'clock pointing at Front Exhaust Cam Gear.
4th - Front Exhaust Cam Gear timing mark at 10 o'clock pointing at Front Intake CG.
5th - Idler gear (with big holes in it) is not timed, doesn't matter.
6th - Generator drive gear is not timed, doesn't matter
The pinion gear underneath the two intake cam gears has a timing mark at 11 o'clock pointing at the Rear Intake CG.
Clean that oil screen while you're in there!
Compression - It doesn't specify what the results of a compression test should be, but the spec for engine compression ratio is 5:1 for a factory engine. Depending on how much has been decked off the heads or other mods it could be as high as 6.5:1. I'd be surprised if you could kick 150 pounds of pressure on a standard compression test.
Valve timing - remove cover, make sure marks are aligned as follows:
(left to right) ALL THESE WILL ALIGN AT THE SAME TIME
1st - Rear Exhaust Cam Gear timing mark at 2 o'clock aligned with Rear Intake Cam Gear
2nd - Rear Intake Cam Gear, has three marks, one at 9 o'clock pointing to Rear Exhaust CG, one at 5 o'clock pointing at pinion gear, one at 3 o'clock pointing at Front Intake Cam Gear.
3rd - Front Intake Cam Gear timing marks at 9 o'clock pointing at Rear Intake CG, and 4 o'clock pointing at Front Exhaust Cam Gear.
4th - Front Exhaust Cam Gear timing mark at 10 o'clock pointing at Front Intake CG.
5th - Idler gear (with big holes in it) is not timed, doesn't matter.
6th - Generator drive gear is not timed, doesn't matter
The pinion gear underneath the two intake cam gears has a timing mark at 11 o'clock pointing at the Rear Intake CG.
Clean that oil screen while you're in there!