1400 intruder tail to 800 tail?

P

plloud

New member
I just saw a vs1400 Intruder.the price was $1500 great shape. I turned it down.( am I dumb or what?) anyway.... MAN I loved the rear fender!!! LOVED IT!!!:mrgreen:

Now the question...........

Can I take a 1400 rear fender, brake light,and tirewith disk brakes and mount it to my VS800?

I like the rear disk brakes as well. if I can not combine the two, Do they make a "kit" for the vs800 to go from drum to disk brakes?
 
Here I am!

Short answer? No.



Long answer- The fender is longer and wider, the electronics mount differently, and the seat mounts differently. You could hack it up and weld it back up to fit, but it would be easier to fabricate one from scratch. However, Thunderbike in Germany has several aftermarket rear fenders for the VS800 if you can afford the price tag and a couple hundred to ship it across the pond.

As for the rear disk brake, again, unless you are one hell of a fabricator, no way. The rear disk requires the 1400's rear wheel, swingarm, shaft drive, and rear master cylinder system, none of which will fit the 800 frame without some serious modifications. It would be cheaper to just buy a 1400.

If you REALLY want rear disk brakes (not that you need them, as the 800 will lock the rear wheel effortlessly with the drum brake) you would have an easier time making the rear swingarm from a 90-93 Suzuki VX800 fit the VS800. At least the drive shafts are the same length, and the swing arms not to different. But the VX used an odd rear wheel, so you'd never match the front. Plus the VX800 is a very hard to find bike, as it sold poorly.
 
Naw, the 800 is quicker off the line than the 1400, quicker 0-60, quicker in the quarter mile, and faster 0-100. It's also lighter, more fun, and will last longer. And it's better looking. I have one of each in the drive, and other than a couple extra inches of leg room the 1400 has nothing over the 800.
 
Well that made my day....

Then something made it go bad:(

Looked like some brown oil seeped from the fork. I can only think that ...new seals are in order:banghead:

Any real threat in riding a bit longer with leaky fork(s) ?
 
If only one is leaking, it throws the handling off, as one remains stiff and the other gets soft. And if they leak enough for oil to get out, water is getting in. You should change them fairly soon.

If you don't want to do them yourself, you can save a lot of money and down time by removing the forks (takes about 5 minutes) and taking them to a shop to have them change the actual seals. Arrange a time, drop them off, go have lunch, then pick them up and put them back on.
 
Well Dr. B,
I bought this bike for a "project bike" so I will be on the lookout for a good deal on some seals I guess. Any good places? Ebay perhaps??

Oh and My choke knob fell off. Got a spare? Or a place that will seel one?
I guess the "boys" at the shop did not tighten it down very well:fight2: I don't see them saying yes it was their fault. you know what I mean.....
 
Hmmm...no, no spare choke knobs. Suzuki only sells the whole cable- about $35. But I bet the ACE hardware or auto parts store has something that will work for about $2. Or check online for universal-fit chrome or billet ones.

Fork seals? I guess fleabay. I usually use genuine Suzuki, as while a few aftermarket companies make the fork seals no one but Suzuki has the dust seals and dust covers. I figure while I have the fork apart I might as well do the oil seal, o-ring, dust seal, and dust cover. Costs about $45 per side.

While the forks are off consider spending another $60 and buying some Progressive Suspension fork springs- WAY better than the stock ones. And I put back 15 or 20 weight fork oil, instead of the stock 10 weight, to slow down the dampening action some for better handling.
 
Back
Top