110" or 103"?

C

Chrissy_Lynn87

New member
Quite true. That is why you can only go to 107ci max without spitting the case on a 96", or I believe 98ci on the former 88ci TC's.

It is also true the 110 uses the same stroke, they just use bigger case bores from the factory to get the 4" jug bore. All that data is in the accessory catalog and your shop manuals for anyone who cares to actually become informed. And, you can be sure it was designed that way from the factory.

Personally, I don't see why anyone would go with a 103 unless they were talked into it by the H-D Chrome Consultant, or you have a bike that came that way. Even then I'd at least hone the jugs and swap out the cast pistons for balanced forged.

In addition to the above already mentioned, I would also recommend T Man as well as Axtel's 107 jugs.

ps: This day and age, Google is your friend.
 
Congrats on the new scoot!

Do your homework THOROUGHLY before you choose your vendor.

Here are a few good sites to check out:
http://tmanperformance.com/
http://head-quarters.com/html/tc107_kits.html

Whatever solution you go with, particularlly if it's a "build" (not just a set of cams or bigbore), the PowerCommander is NOT what you want (regardless of what some may lead you to believe).

You'll really need a S/E SuperTuner (SEST) or TTS from MasterTune.
http://mastertune.net/
 
Static compresson on a 96 is 9.2:1.



The static compression is just the starting point. Your corrected compression is set by your cams. Pick a cam that nets you a CCP of somewhere between 185 and 190 and you'll have a motor that's easily tuned, and won't be a pinging monster everytime you roll on the throttle.

I put some Kury 26 cams in a 95 for one of my riding bros last spring. It has 10.25 pistons and with the heads he put on it, he had a static cr of just over 10.5. The cams he wanted have a fairly late close of 50*, which would be horrible in a stock motor, but in his build, they made great power at any rpm setting, and just about pulled your arms off when you rolled on the throttle. I think he netted a corrected cr of 9.2 and a CCP of around 190. The motor's in a softail, and he can show us his tail lights just about anytime he wants to. He had told the guy who did his heads that he wanted to make at least 100/100 and those were the cams he was told to put in.
 
How much of the work will you be doing yourself? I'm looking at doing a 107 upgrade to my bike this winter, but I'll be doing it all myself, which significantly cuts down the cost.
 
As we all know, more power = more $$. Determine how much you want to spend to start with and then stick with it. The build in my signature was $2,789 + 800 for the D&D pipes, already had a PC-V. My build runs at a CCP of 180 and runs with no pinging or knocks, even using the low octane found out west. While I have manual CR's installed, I don't use them, ever. Doing head work is your best suggestion. I average 40-42 mpg and the power will yank your arms off. I recently completed a 7500 mi trip out west and the bike ran great. Unless you want to get into welding and trueing the crank (split cases), then I would suggest staying under 115 TQ for your build. Like has been said, "do your homework" and you will get a good build. Good luck on your choices.
 
Does your bike still have MFR warranty? A non H-D build would certainly void most engine portion of that. A stage 1/2 103/110" build might not. Just something else to consider....
 
My head work was done by the dealer ( I know some won't like hearing that). A mild cleanup of the heads and adding more radius to the vlv's and seat area. This adds to better flow and in most cases will result in some additional HP. No, it's not bench flowed, just a mild street port job and for my build that is all I wanted. You can spend over $1k to get your heads flowed but, it doesn't sound like you want to do that much. I had my build re-dynoed after the build and depending on who does it, can depend on what you end up with, they are not all the same. My numbers are true numbers (SAE, not STD) and not some hyper inflated numbers to make you feel like you can justify spending all that money on a dyno. My scoot rips and spools up quick, in fact you better shift before you are even thinking about it. It also tours and putts at slower gawking speeds. It is, " what I wanted". My bike was out of warranty when I did the build and that does not concern me, been riding HD for over 45 years.
 
Are you confused yet? lol
I asked kinda the same questions last winter…..and I think people are still arguing on that thread as to what is the best thing to do.

Your question is: How much do you want (or are willing) to spend?
You can buy power, it just depends on how much you will spend.

And don’t forget you will need a Full Exhaust (to get rid of the Catalytic Converter), Air Cleaner upgrade, a Tuner (I agree with Phil: SEST), Compression Releases, a SE Compensator (now, or after you burn yours up), probably a SE 110 Starter (now, or after you burn yours up) and a $300 Dyno.

I ended up spending twice what I was going to spend to start with. But I’m happy I did, so far anyway.
 
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