'07 Idle Issues

Heath R

New member
Cruse my lengthy letter again about about oil. My bike starts at 1500 or so even in summer and drops to 1200 to 1150 pretty quick. It then will trim to 1100 as soon as I see it drop from 1150 it will usually bump to 1050 which is what I time for me pop it in low. I do it pretty automatically and I shift hard into low. However with my bike idle at 1050-1150 it still is a pretty loud clunk. I guess I see a 1000 when it 98 and the oil is 210 . My bike breather system is not a whole lot different, Were your upper hooks on to the head is at mine has the barbs and the tubes coming thru the SE backing plate but mine are home made single layer fuel hose and they are angled for the major air flow pulling across them. My original factory hose dried out and started leaking and the dealer wanted $20 for those hoses. I have the SE filter. Like I said my bike get drive year round but it may set a few months in Feb/March if below freezing and the oil will pool up enough to drip on the motor. The air filter is always covered in it. I got good compression so even with 40K I do not have a lot of blow by and I also seldom run over 3400rpm. Just my opinion but I think you have a signal problem, not oil sticking. My electrical diagnostic manual says the temperature switch affects the IAC motor position but this is easy to check. Could be your throttle position sensor being lazy (cruded up) This is easy to check. The IAC requires a special tool to check. Obivious it runs OK most of the time which is why unless it is failing all the time is hard to check.
 
Marty442, I believe that the bike runs totally different. I am now home in FL got home about 7pm. I had zeroed one of the trip meters when I left home and when I pulled into the driveway tonight it showed 6,690 miles total round trip and that includes a whole lot of day rides in the Black Hills. My wife and I left on July 1 and got home today Sep 2.

I can absolutely tell you that after the shop changed the Idle Motor and the fuel filter, the bike has a lot more power. In fact after I bought bike I complained that my 01 Road King with big bore kit 95", ran much better. So these technical guys, Iclick and gfr000, I think described that the Idle motor as not affecting it above idle. They could be right on as far as I know. I just know the bike runs better and roll on is a lot stronger.

On my way out to Rapid City, SD, I was pretty upset with the bike even before the idle issues started because I thought it was due to being a 6 speed and gearing making it a dog, since my 01 RK is a 5 speed. Well it woke up after they made the two last repairs. Idle motor and fuel filter and there was only 20-21k miles on the bike. I guess the fuel filter could have been restrictive but I blew air through the old one and a new one. They seemed almost the same but the old one was harder to blow through, I assumed because the filter still wet with gas and the new one was dry. I don't know for certain about all this new stuff.

I did not have any more non starting issues after I pushed the two wires down on the starter.

Time to spend hours cleaning all this bug infested chrome.
 
Once you were done and all was warmed up what was the range for the 1000RPM? My bike with 40k runs great with no drivability issues but it hunts about 100rpm. 1050-950. Is this just the range of normal? Best as I can tell it has always been this way but I have only had a tach for a couple of years. I figured Harley did this to make it sound more like a Harley. Isn't the throttle stop actually just a factory fixed setting so the butterfly is seated when the stop hits the screw and to keep the butterfly from wedging tight in the bore from someone just letting it fly back?
 
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