Cruse my lengthy letter again about about oil. My bike starts at 1500 or so even in summer and drops to 1200 to 1150 pretty quick. It then will trim to 1100 as soon as I see it drop from 1150 it will usually bump to 1050 which is what I time for me pop it in low. I do it pretty automatically and I shift hard into low. However with my bike idle at 1050-1150 it still is a pretty loud clunk. I guess I see a 1000 when it 98 and the oil is 210 . My bike breather system is not a whole lot different, Were your upper hooks on to the head is at mine has the barbs and the tubes coming thru the SE backing plate but mine are home made single layer fuel hose and they are angled for the major air flow pulling across them. My original factory hose dried out and started leaking and the dealer wanted $20 for those hoses. I have the SE filter. Like I said my bike get drive year round but it may set a few months in Feb/March if below freezing and the oil will pool up enough to drip on the motor. The air filter is always covered in it. I got good compression so even with 40K I do not have a lot of blow by and I also seldom run over 3400rpm. Just my opinion but I think you have a signal problem, not oil sticking. My electrical diagnostic manual says the temperature switch affects the IAC motor position but this is easy to check. Could be your throttle position sensor being lazy (cruded up) This is easy to check. The IAC requires a special tool to check. Obivious it runs OK most of the time which is why unless it is failing all the time is hard to check.