'07 Idle Issues

W

whoaaitsbecky

New member
I don't know, he's still got the stock Compensator, Crank runout, Trans bearings, Wheel bearings, The dreaded wobble, Heat, bla bla bla to worry about!

JK folks!!! It "could" be a good bike for you now.......
 
Yeah, why sell it? What you describe sounds like a simple connection issue with the battery cables. Remove and clean them on both ends. It could also be a bad starter solenoid, but that's a more-remote possibility IMO.
 
This valve controls idle with an air adjustment allowing more air when engine is cold. It resets ever time you cut the ignition on and off. With my air filter off I can see mine with an on/off key switch (not running) mine will make a full retract and then back and position for a cold start up. I would replace if it was me. In my opinion I think the actual step motor signal coming from it is missing a few counts and spraying a lot of carb cleaner will just drive crud up thru the screw into the electrical were it gums it up. This is probable what take most of them out. You should not be spraying carb cleaner in throttle bodies especial cars. All they need some times is a spray on a paper towel to wipe off the area were the throttle plate seats and sometime sticks due to build up crud. I just finished working on a Toyota 4x4 Truck and the problem someone had sprayed it so much that it had drove the crud thru the shaft of the throttle position sensor and gummed up the contact of the resistor scale in this application
 
Grf000, what do you think about the idea that oil from the breather with SE AC upgrades is what's taking out the IAC motors? Since there will be a vacuum at all times at the IAC orifice it stands to reason some oil will get sucked into it. With stock and K&N AC's the oil dribbles down into the air filter, IIRC.
 
Well tonight we are in Macon, GA. When I stopped yesterday at 4 Rivers HD around Paducah, KY one of the service guys told me that they have had some problems with the green wire on top of the starter that can wiggle loss and not make good contact, so today the bike would not fire up again and I pushed down on the two connections on top and one snapped down and the bike fired right up.

Well now I can say that it is running very nicely in fact it runs (or seems to) better than it ever has since the day I bought it. It has more roll on power. Before, when I would go up a hill in 6th I usually had to downshift to 5th to get the power and now I don't and that is with my wife and I and both bags full and the tour pak full. the only thing on top the tour pak is our rain suits. I do not like to stack stuff up on top the tour pak. So we have a pretty good load because I am very heavy so it is like three people being on the bike.

I am still serious about selling it for other reasons too. I think the tranny on these new bikes sound very noisy, whining and if it is under a load at a slower rpm, then the tranny seems to knock to easily compared to my 01 Road King. I am thinking I will sell the Ultra and keep fixing up the Road King. One reason is because I prefer a more stripped down look. If I can get enough of my money back on the Ultra otherwise I will keep it. I would like to put 14" apes and a quick tour pak release for local riding and a better seat. So all that will be pretty costly.

Thanks again to all of you and this forum, it has helped a great deal.
 
This is just my opinion but the actual air flow is if you look up at the pineal v sticking down thru is by it and down a passage way on the other side of the throttle body butterfly which at idle is pretty air tight. There is factor set stop on the butterfly and I think in this thread someone is actual trying to control idle by adjust it but this is a no no. The IAC is driven by the screw that goes upward into the little motor. Never torn into one but I sort think that there is an area on the shaft that is smooth and may have an o-ring but not sure. As the engine pistons go down they creates the vacuum and the air pushes in thru the opening around the pineal and thru a passage and back out on the other side of the throttle butterfly back in the throttle body. At idle this small amount of air combines with the spray from the fuel injector which is very quick duration at 1500( ? depending on how cold it is) to warm idle of 1100 rpm . There is a IAT (intake air temperature), ECM(computer),ET(engine temperature) and MAP(manifold absolute pressure) all interacting together here.
However there is no opening back up thru screw shaft were motor and reader for IAC is. The air is coming thru the air filter and as soon as you crack the throttle it goes by the throttle plate and the IAC valve is basically no longer needed. Sure the oil coming from the two vents in the back of the air filter drafts thru the passage of the IAC and actual can make the throttle butterfly stick and this is where I refer to wiping area with the throttle held wide open, but if you look back thru the IAC port behind the v petal it a pretty big hole and it pushed by and away from the screw, not down thru it. I do not think as long as you are running a filter that this actual passage-way would stop up and if the pineal sticks you can see that. When I cycle my ignition and watch mine it actual jumps back and forth sort of loose and wobble with 40K on it My concern was the high pressure very light solvent of the carb cleaner pressing pass the seal area . There is a actual black almost carbon like build up over time and this washed back up inside the actual motor may interfere in its signal. The original problem in this thread could be caused by a leaky injector but since it is real random I do not think it is this. I actually think the IAC was bad from the factory. Hay, it could be a bad connection on the ECM but I doubt that also. One thing I cannot figure is there is about 3 checks going on at all times on this system to prevent any type of runaway engine when something fails and if the ECM ever detects an rpm over 200 out of where it thinks it is and it should set a code. Not sure if anyone has checked a code since this thread is so long. In fact I have spent so much time on it and reading my service manuals I would have fixed it for him if he was up the street. (One last thought less someone trashes me for saying air pushes , remember the air rushing in is not being pulled in by the pistons but is actually being pushed in by atmospheric pressure. However you see it pulling or pushing does not affect what I am saying above.) Also this is just my opinion since I am not an expert here but have been doing all my own wrenching for 46 years. Also my bike has the SE filter an dribbles oil down on tappet cover.
 
I'm interested in the fact your bike is running better now after replacing your IAC motor. I had the same feeling after replacing mine. I can't think of a reason why that is, I thought the IAC only affected idle. But as soon as I got the bike back it seemed more responsive and stronger at all speeds. With all the 07 idle issues, it makes you wonder if HD had a bad batch of IAC motors that year.
 
This valve will only control idle and coming off idle maybe only very slightly and of course that area just before coming completely off throttle. It also keeps the engine from what some one would call dieseling and when you cut key off since it complete shuts at that point but it would not affect power anywhere over a 2k or so. It might a 1/1000 of a HP at WOT since it is a small opening thru there but you would never notice that unless you race Hybushas. Always wonder since we are on the subject since I am dealing with an 04 and my manuals are 04 does anyone's newer FI hunt. My sits there and hunts up and down apx 50 rpm which I have always assumed Harley built this into it to give it a Harley idle since it has aways did this. Does not putt like the old ones did but with open exhaust it sounds Harley. Does others HUNT? Also what is the highest cold air idle you have seen? I cannot actual find that anywhere.
 
Back to my question above about the AC breather injecting the bypassed oil into the throttle body, your '04 is likely a different design. Look at the photo below and notice that the breather oil will be injected directly into the intake flow. My question was whether or not this oil could be getting into the IAC orifice and gunking up the motor.



I think this design started in '07, possibly '06, and previously had the oil dripping into the filter where it would eventually drip-out onto the saddlebag, nosecone, etc.



Mine never did.



Normal idle when cold is about 1100 rpm for me, but it usually settles to normal (900) after a minute or so. When the IAC motor was acting up it would sometimes start-up at 2000 rpms or even higher, and would settle back to normalcy only after turning off the kill switch and ignition switch in that order, then turning back on in the reverse.
 
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