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it has a vacuum line off on the back of the engine has it had any work done on it lately? just get under the hood and check all the vacuum lines the 1 thats off will go thru the firewall. also the lines are plasic with rubber collars that hook them up 1 may have failed so look at them good. good...

go to autozone.com and register then type in the vehicle info and go to repair info then go to emmission controls and the vacuum routing will show there. once you hook it up the control pot will work

and what is it now? Didn't Obama claim "The Economic is strong" right after he passed the stimulus plans? What a liar!

no oil didnt get into the tranny from the seals. the lose of tranny fluid burned up the clutches in the tranny. if your having that kind of problems get rid of it. it will cost you more then its worth

unhook the battery cables from the battery and hook the jumper cables to the battery cables. it should get you the power to roll your windows up and move it if needed. sounds like its a dead cell in your battery have it checked out

check your fuel pressure regulator up on the engine when they go bad they will start leaking a little bit and wont keep enough fuel pressure to make it run right. if i remember right the cost is about $50 good luck. also take it to an autozone and have them put it on the diagnostic tester to see...

it hasnt been reset yet. most of the time it will reset if the problems are fixed. go to autozone or oreilly auto parts or any shop can reset it for you good luck

the heads of the bolt is 14 mm 2 inches in length should be right. just to be safe for the price id pick up the same amount of bolts with the head 15 mm just incase i might be wrong you can always take them back to get your money back so save the receipt. the thread pitch is the widest dont get...

first reaplce your thermostat then check your hoses going to your heater core thru the fire wall they may be whats leaking now but if it down by the tire id say your heater core is fryed also by the steam getting into the cab

clutch disk are ruined from it over heating. only fix is a rebuild or replacement

how did you get the code 42?

IS THE MODULE YOU ARE TALKING BOUT THE SWITCH ON THE DOOR? THEY ARE THE MAIN CAUSE. IF NOT THE MOTOR TO THE WINDOW IS WORE OUT THE BRUSHES WEAR OUT ON THEM THE MOTOR WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED. HOPE THIS HELPS YOU

CHECK YOUR STARTER DID YOU PUT THE LITTLE WIRE ONTO THE SOLENOID ON TOP OF THE STARTER? ALSO MAKE SURE ITS IN PARK OR SHIFTED INTO NEUTRAL THEN TRY TO START IT. SINCE PUTTING IN A NEW ENGINE CHECK THAT ALL CONNECTORS ARE HOOKED UP. ALSO IS THE NEG CABLE GROUNDED TO THE ENGINE?

JUST DONT SPRAY IT TOO THICK IT'LL BE OK

HOW DOES THE SPIDER GEARS LOOK? I'LL BET THEY ARE ATE UP OR BROKE.

IS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON? IF NOT TRY CHANGING THE IDLE SENSOR ON SIDE OF THE THROTTLE BODY (SOME) ARE ADJUSTABLE THO SO LOOSEN AND ADJUST TO SEE IF IT HELPS

ITS NOT WORTH THE EXPENSE TO JUST REPLACE THE TURN SWITCH. IT WOULD TAKE A MECHANIC LONGER TO TRY TO READ THE SCHEMATIC TO DO IT THEN TO PUT A NEW SWITCH IN. ALSO DID YOU JUST PUT A NEW TRAILER CONNECTOR UNDER YOUR TRUCK? I WOULD DOUBLE CHECK IT TO MAKE SURE ITS NOT SHORTING ACROSS SOMEWHERE

your treading on ground not many people can't do by reading wiring diagrams to convert the sensors. it would depend on if its automatics or std trannys. And to be able to get your bell housings to bolt up would be a nightmare to engineer. If you can accomplish that im sure you'll be able to get...

your treading on ground not many people can't do by reading wiring diagrams to convert the sensors. it would depend on if its automatics or std trannys. And to be able to get your bell housings to bolt up would be a nightmare to engineer. If you can accomplish that im sure you'll be able to get...

IS THE MODULE YOU ARE TALKING BOUT THE SWITCH ON THE DOOR? THEY ARE THE MAIN CAUSE. IF NOT THE MOTOR TO THE WINDOW IS WORE OUT THE BRUSHES WEAR OUT ON THEM THE MOTOR WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED. HOPE THIS HELPS YOU