Power Commander 5 and Auto Tune Info

K

kkdd

New member
My autotune is setup how it came from fuelmoto. I spoke to Jamie and he said there was no need to alter the setting.

After reading through some articles on the PCV and autotune, I read that you can set it up to tune in each gear if you want. Is there a benefit to this and how do you activate this function? Thanks
 
I've thought about this and can't imagine why we would need to do any gear-specific tuning outside a racing environment. If anyone can think of any I'd like to know.
 
103"-10.1 compression-SE 204 cams-SE air cleaner-SE slip-on's(the quiet ones)

Here's some info for the knowledge base. I was still in auto-tune mode when i went blasting up the interstate @ 85 with a passenger. When i checked the trims the rear cylinder was really bad off. With this particular combo the rear O2 sensor wasn't reading right due to the crossover pipe. I ran it solo and it tuned right from then on. With this cam even with 10.1 pistons i was able to advance the timing all across the range up to a maximum of 4 degrees @ WOT. Adjusted AFR to 14.1 at cruise range, no pinging, oil runs 185 degrees measured at the tank at any speed. Gets fantastic mileage, 42MPG running 85 mph. Probably upper 40's-low 50's if ridden sanely on two lane roads. This was a cheap ebay set of new cams but they're staying in there. There might be better cams but with this kind of mileage and enough power to pull the front wheel off the ground on a 800 pound touring bike, i ain't touching it again!
 
Sounds like a rockin set-up, but why stay with the stock headpipe? Thinking of going true duals or 2-1? I bet this would clean things up and delivery the next level of improvement.
 
This is an excellent thread and I am learning tons....

I have an 07 Ultra (96) with a SE air cleaner, Rinehart TD's with BCT baffles and a Daytona Twin Tech tuner.

I just purchased this bike used and want to increase the performance.

Reading all of Iclick's posts, I eventually want to move to SE 255 cams; if I can find a good price on Ebay.

What should I do first??

I was thinking of purchasing a PVC from Jamie first. Secondly, should I purchase the AT right off the bat or wait till I do the SE 255 cam upgrade?

I do like the idea of having two maps... one for power/cooling (for Chicago commuting and hiting the pavement with the boys) and one for touring/fuel milage. But.. it's not that important.

Decisions, Decisions....

Thanks,

Scott
 
I like the A/Tune because its always monitoring the performance of your engine. So changes in gas quality, altitude, mechanical set-ups are instantly updated.

Big plus is not questioning your map adjustments made by a manual, one point in time, tune on a dyno.

I don't know how you could argue against the value of it.
 
There wouldn't be any strict order to purchasing the new parts, except I would have the PCV+AT ready when you do your cam swap, as there will be a big change in tuning after the cams are installed. Since you have an '07 I could give you my map files for the 255's, which will be close since the only difference is the pipes (I have Jackpots) and would be a good place to start. With the values close AT will trim much more quickly toward an optimum tune.

If you want to install the PCV-AT first and run it with your stock cams I have maps for that setup too.



Either way is fine, but I think I would just go ahead and buy the entire PCV-AT package and familiarize yourself with it early.



That's easy to set-up and any on-off switch will do. With AT you can switch between open-loop (base map) and closed-loop (auto-tune), so at first I ran the bike with richer target AFR's, then "Accept Trims" to write a new base map, and finally change the target AFR's in the cruise range only to leaner values for gas mileage. That will make AT trim leaner for better mileage (most riding) and run richer (base map only) when you flip the switch. It works great.
 
iClick is correct again.

The stock rear head pipe causes the rear O2 sensor to read false O2 levels at certain throttle positions. This is due to the crossover and how it causes the exhaust flow to pulse/invert.

The absolute best way to allow both sensors to read accurately at all throttle positions and loads is to install a 2-1 or true duals. But even then you usually can't run unbaffled drags. You will need some amount of back pressure offered by even the least restrictive baffles.
 
We have seen few issues with reversion with the stock headpipe, and any issues we seen were with 08 and earlier models when used with a very open baffle. When you use a reasonably baffled muffler it will generally be a non issue.
 
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